Scrolling through this for the first time and when I got to the pic of the cut in shelves I winced. Not enough wood there unless it was really wide front to back. Take a look at a glass bow and the thickness at the shelf front to back - thickest part of the bow. The most force is applied near the handle at the end of the lever (limb) and that is where it needs to be strongest.

Shaun,

Good observation.  I have three other bows with this same design and I have shot hundreds of arrows with all three.  The difference here is, I got in a hurry and was not paying attention and reversed the bow.  I usually have a 3" fade starting at the cut in shelves which keeps the bow pretty thick at that point.  This time, I thought I was working on the lower limb and only cut in a one inch fade which made it way too weak at the shelf.

I am wondering if I can keep the lower limb, get another billet and use it for a take down bow.  What do you guys think?

Hey Nephi, why not make a steel bow!

Wildcat, I just can't find the right springs!!

Don that wood would not be a complete waste you know. You could thin it or cut it with table saw or band saw, and make backing strips or belly lams. Just a brain storm.

KellyG,

Good suggestions, but I don't have any electrical tools other than a drill and a jig saw.  I was thinking about offering the pieces up if someone could use them.





The longest piece is about 33" and the shortest about 30".

The big piece is 1/2" wide at the tip and 1.5" at its widest point.  Its 1.5" thick at the tip and and begins tapering about 8" below the handle to about 3/4" thick.

The smaller piece is a fairly consistent .75" thick the entire length and is 1/2" wide at the tip and about 1 3/8" near the handle.

If anybody wants them, let me know and I will see about getting them to you.

don,
use your jig saw too rip it the length. then sand it  down to the thickness you want. I am just brain storming.
Kelly

I have made bows from broken pieces. Next time you break a bow you will have two limbs with handles and can make a "W" splice in the middle and have a good bow blank.

Don,  I cut in a shelf with a saw years ago with the same results for the same reason yours broke. I stopped the practice. I'll use a leather shelf now or just let the arrow rest on my hand.  I don;t want my bows looking like FG bows anyway.    Jawge

Looks like a good candidate for a handle splice and a backing to me.