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Feathers cutting bowhand?

Started by duck'n, July 08, 2007, 08:25:00 PM

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duck'n

Is this a grip issue?  I am fairly new to traditional.  I have been shooting recurves and longbows for about 3 to 4 years now.  I recently decided to upgrade and bought a gently used Ancient Spirits Sequoia.  I love the bow but the one thing I really like about it seems to be my problem with it...the slender, nimble riser and subsequent narrow shelf are causing some contact between the fletches and my bowhand.  Didn't know if this was a grip flaw or some other issue.  I hope to get it resolved or I may have to sell it and try something else.

Traxx

In the old days,of self bows,and shooting across the hand,it was a rule,that if you were a right handed shooter,you should use left wing fletches.I believe this was for fletch vane orientation.You would have the softer side of the quill against your hand.Nowdays,with elevated,no contact shelves,it doesnt matter.You may also,try wrapping the leading edge.
Target archery is seeing how far away you can get and still hit the bull's eye. Bowhunting is seeing how close you can get and never miss your mark.

hormoan

First question did you bare shaft tune? A improper tune arrow slapping downward can do this. I have some issues with very low cut shelfs and my straight grip also doing the same thing. If thats the case build up the height of the shelf. As needed to stop the fletch cutting your hand.

                  Brent

Flints

I have several longbows and only with one do I get any fletching/hand interference. The palm swell puts my nuckle right up to the shelf.By shooting cock feather in, there is clearance between the fletching and my hand.
If a man that is not perfect be ever in practice, he shall as well
practice his errors as his abilities and induce one habit of both; and there is no means to help this but by intermission - Francis bacon

30coupe

Aww heck, Flints, you beat me to it. Especially with bows that are not center shot, it helps both arrow flight and eliminates bleeding index fingers to shoot with the cock feather in. The old Bear Cub that I had that was the only way it shot well.
Kanati 58" 44# @ 28" Green glass on a green riser
Bear Kodiak Magnum 52" 45# @ 28"
Bodnik Slick Stick longbow 58" 40# @ 28"
Bodnik Kiowa 52" 45# @ 28"
Kanati 58" 46# @ 28" R.I.P (2007-2015)
Self-made Silk backed Hickory Board bow 67" 49# @ 28"
Bear Black Bear 60" 45# @28"
NRA Life Member

String Cutter

I had problems with getting cut in the top of the webbing of my hand. I just used a thicker piece of leather on the shelf to raise the arrow up alittle.
Fatherhood is the greatest adventure a man can ever take.

mike g

You can also raise your nock point a hair and this will help.
"TGMM Family of the Bow"

duck'n

Thanks all...as usual, many great ideas and tips.

Dick in Seattle

I was working with a new bow just last week and had this very problem.  As Mike G says, raising the nock point is often the simple solution.    I shoot three under and find that this "arrow slap" problem is commoner than when I shot split finger.  I generally have my nock at 5/8".  I ' to 3/4"

Dick in Seattle
Dick in Seattle

"It ain't how well the bow you shoot shoots, it's how well you shoot the bow you shoot."

Pat B

I wrap the forward end of all my fletchings but I shoot off of my hand. This will prevent the fletching from cutting your hand but if you have another problem, you should fix that first.    Pat
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

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