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Bareshaft Tuning Question

Started by Bob Walker, April 22, 2007, 10:32:00 PM

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Bob Walker

I'm going to be bareshaft tuning some carbons for a new Blacktail in the next few days. What should I use to glue the inserts in so that the heads won't come off in the target but will allow me to remove them to cut the shafts?
Thanks,
Bob
Philippians 4:13

TGMM - Brotherhood of the Bow

wtpops

Go a head and glue in the inserts. You can pull the nock and cut that end as needed.
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"OVERTHINKING" The art of creating problems that weren't even there!

JRY309

Bob what I do is use some plastic food wrap,I put the wrap over the shaft end and push the insert in.It holds it snug enough for me.The target I use is a 2" thick foam target set in front of my bag target.The foam keeps the arrow position while the bag doesn't grab tight enough to pull the point and insert back out.I can keep tuning without waiting for glue to set up.I don't fully epoxy my inserts until the final tuning with some fletched shafts to see if they are grouping with the bare ones.It takes alittle time but with the cost of carbons I'd rather take my time to be happy with them then be quick.

vermonster13

wtpops is dead on. You'll be bareshafting so cut from the nock end Bob.
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Bob Walker

Thanks, guys. I'm thinking about using Grizzlystix so unless I'm mistaken they're suppose to be cut from the point end.
Philippians 4:13

TGMM - Brotherhood of the Bow

Whip

I use hot melt until I figure out what I want.  But I shoot into my broadhead sand pit so there isn't much resistance pulling them out.  I guess it really depends what kind of target you are shooting into.  One thing that might help a little would be to use a field point with a smaller diameter than the shaft.  I would think that would be less likely to pull out when removing arrows from the target.
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JC

When you bareshaft, everything should be exactly as with your finished arrow, except fletching. So, if you dip/cap crest, cutting from the nock end would be counter productive. For this reason, I do it like Whip...hot melt or just a drop of CA as the temporary and shoot into loose sand/dirt.
"Being there was good enough..." Charlie Lamb reflecting on a hunt
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Roadkill

plastic wrap is what we use in the shop and it really works with no hassels after your done. Just clean the shaft and glue in the insert to your fienly tuned shaft
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JEFF B

hot melt brother only way to go no problem. then when tuned 24 hr epoxy.  :thumbsup:
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other times i let her sleep"

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Bob Walker

Thanks, guys for the info. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Philippians 4:13

TGMM - Brotherhood of the Bow

TRADITIONAL ONLY

i just got my GrizzlyStiks and they say to cut only from the point...

and i just realized that i HATE hot melt, Ferrel-Tite anyways, it just dont work easily for me...
If its brown its down; thats my motto.


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