Bow square question

[McDave]

I usually measure brace height by holding the short arm of the bow square against the throat of the grip, and reading the brace height where the long arm crosses the string at a right angle.  Because the short end of the bow square is cut in slightly, measuring this way gives me a measurement that is about 1/8" more than the actual brace height.  If you turn the bow square around and clip it to the string, it gives you an accurate measurement, but is not quite as convenient as the way I usually do it.  So if I want a brace of 8 1/2" on my Black Widow, I should really twist the string until the bow square measures 8 5/8", if measured with the short arm against the riser.

Of course, if you arrive at your preferred brace height through testing, it really doesn't matter what number you assign to it as long as you can set it at the same brace height consistently, but if you ever use a bow square that isn't cut in, or want to set the brace height according to the bowyer's recommendation, it could make a difference.

You can see in the photo that the 6" mark on the bow square really is only 5 7/8" from the cut in base of the bow square.  Do you think my reasoning is correct?

[Wudstix]

But won't it be 6 1/8" to the string?

[tippit]

My brace height is my palm on the back side of the riser and the end of my thumb on the string
I carry that withe always

[McDave]

But won't it be 6 1/8" to the string?

Let's assume we put the short arm of the bow square on the throat of the grip, and measure 6" on the long arm at the string.  I believe that means that the distance from the throat of the grip to the string is actually 5 7/8"

[Gdpolk]

Sounds like you have it figured correctly for both the McDave way and the common way. Most importantly is that it hits within the proper range of brace heights to spec and is consistent over time for tuning purposes.

[Bisch]

I've ran into this same problem when using different bow squares. Like you said, it really doesn't matter as long as you always use the same bow square and measure the same way.

Bisch

[Orion]

You have the square figured out correctly.  When you put the clips on the string, the clip position adds the 1/8-inch to the ruler.  On my squares, it's 1 7/8 inches from the perpendicular side of the square to the 2-inch mark on the ruler. The extra 1/8-inch is obtained by snapping the clips on the string.  In short, the ruler is calibrated from the clip position, not the metal base of the square.  It doesn't really matter which way you do it as long as you do it consistently.  Of course, when you're trying to match the builder's or anyone else's recommendations, you don't know how he/she measured it unless you ask.  But again, doesn't really make enough difference to worry about it.  Just be consistent.

I do think you get a more consistent reading by using the clips on the string which always ensures a perpendicular hold of the ruler in relation to the string.  If you hold the base of the ruler in the throat of the grip, the ruler may be perpendicular to the string one time, and not the next.  Probably doesn't make 1/16-inch difference, but just not as consistent because you have to eyeball the perpendicularness (if that's a word) of the ruler, whereas the clips on the string nail it every time.

I use the clips on the string method. Given the way the ruler is calibrated, it seems that's why the the square maker put them there.     

[Kelly]

But won't it be 6 1/8" to the string?

Let's assume we put the short arm of the bow square on the throat of the grip, and measure 6" on the long arm at the string.  I believe that means that the distance from the throat of the grip to the string is actually 5 7/8"

Depends on where on the string you measure. Have always measured to the inside of string, but if you measure to the far side of string you will have the actual 6" measurement. Really doesn't matter, just a reference point for yourself.

[Pat B]

I use a bow square for the initial 3/8" above level nock point and fine tune from there. Like Tippet I use my fistmele to set brace height. 

[The Whittler]

I clamp the square on the string and measure from there but I myself can't tell the difference in 2 or 3 twist.

[1Arrow1Kill]

I, too, place the short arm of the square against the riser to measure and determine my brace height.  Using the same square each time gives me consistent (if not perfectly accurate) readings.  I use the bowyer's brace height recommendation as just that - a recommendation (starting point) and adjust my actual brace height for best arrow flight, hand shock and overall quietness.   Also, I place a small piece of mat finish scotch tape on the lower limb belly of each bow and with a fine, black sharpie marker write the brace height (BH),  string length (SL), arrow length (AL), arrow weight (AW) and arrow spine (AS) on the tape so it is readily available when & where I need this information.  Looks like this:
    ------------
    l  BH 7.25" l
    l  SL 55"     l
    l  AL 29"     l
    l  AW 583   l
    l  AS 500    l
    ------------
Having multiple bows and failing memory, the 1" piece of tape attached to each of my longbows provides me quick reference.  It is fairly unnoticeable if not looking for it, stays on well and peels off without leaving residue.

[Pine]

 
How is it that the simplest things can get so complicated?
I only use a bow square to set a nock point.
They have a neat invention that you can get, it has graduations on it and it rolls up inside a convenient container that can fit in a pocket.
The one I use I think is made by Stanley.

[1Arrow1Kill]

I hear ya Pine.  But appears you need 2 tools (bow square and a tape measure) to accomplish what we do with just a bow square.  No concerns . . . to each his own. 

[SlowBowKing]

Pine, you taught me my new word for the day—fistmele!

After I find the perfect brace height, I mark an arrow or two with a line where it contacts the riser. That way if you don't have your bow square handy, you're good to go, even out in the field.

[GCook]

If I have my bow square handy I use the short arm against the throat method.  However my bow square doesn't measure accurately and is about 1/16th over what the actual measurement is.
It's an inexpensive aluminum one I've had since I first started bowhunting back in the late 80s.  So even if it's a tad off, it matches it's owner and I see no need to replace it.
If it's not handy my school teacher wife always has a ruler or two in the junk drawer and I often use one of them.
My fistmelé is short and fat and won't reach even my shortest BH which is 7&⅜" on my latest PT longbow limbs.
That said I've told myself several times to set up the masking tape idea Dennis mentioned as I'm there too with trying to keep up.
I'm also a bit strange I guess as I can tell when my string is a twist or two off.  It may be me being bs crazy but I can get that ½ twist and bam, my groups tighten up and the world is a peaceful place again.
I really like it when someone says they shoot a single string bow for the simplicity of it.  That's the biggest line of crud I've ever heard.
Twist your string, trim your arrow, is the nock too tight on the serving?   Nock point moved?  And the twenty other things that can cause great or poor shooting results.
That's what makes it so dang satisfying when it's all right in your personal archery universe.    Or so freakin frustrating when it's not.

[McDave]

I'm also a bit strange I guess as I can tell when my string is a twist or two off.  It may be me being bs crazy but I can get that ½ twist and bam, my groups tighten up and the world is a peaceful place again.

I wish I had the same feel for it that you do.  I can tell the difference if the brace height is more than 1/8" off, but not a few twists off.