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String groves

Started by Raven22, August 24, 2016, 01:35:00 PM

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Raven22

Any tips for cutting in the string groves?  Mine never seem to line up just right.

Roy from Pa

Trace them out with a pencil first.

breazyears

Make up a little jig with the angle you like on it. I read a buildcalong on this site, and the fella used one. Itvwas showen in a pic. Maybe he will chime in. I cant remember who it was...
FOUND IT!
http://piratesofarchery.net/bb/viewtopic.php?p=94996
theirs a fly in my soup

monterey

I just use a try square.  Mine are all 45 deg   :)
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

goobersan

a jig or square, then use a hacksaw to get the grooves started

Wolftrail

QuoteOriginally posted by goobersan:
a jig or square, then use a hacksaw to get the grooves started
+2 on that one

bigbob2

Yup use an engineering square for each side at 45 and a  hacksaw blade to cut on each line at the sides, taking care to ensure each side squares across to the other. a chainsaw file to cut the groove, and slowly roll the groove from the side to the upper face, keeping the file working more toward the  end of tip as you progress across.

macbow

A tile cutting blade in the hacksaw is even easier to start and control.
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Roy from Pa

Yupper Mac. That's what I use.

LittleBen

I typically start them with the edge of my half round file and then finish with a chainsaw file.

Eric Krewson

If you use overlays, cut a groove across the back for early tillering. When you get to full brace mark where your string lies and cut your side grooves.


LittleBen

Eric is totally right, if it a longbow hats definately the best method IMO. I build a fair number of recurves and you can't do that with recurves, but I do the same thing for belly string groves.

Roy from Pa

I actually quit running the string grooves down the sides of the limb on my longbows. All that's needed is the groove across the back, that's what holds the string on the bow. I let the loops align where they want along the sides, which they always align perfectly. Haven't had any problems doing it that way.

PEARL DRUMS

Skip the side grooves altogether, you will be happy you did.

goobersan

QuoteOriginally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
Skip the side grooves altogether, you will be happy you did.
What about an R/D glass bow ?

PEARL DRUMS

I see no benefits to side grooves in any bows. Lots of examples of very extreme designs with just a top groove. Like a Mongol horse bow. I build all wood bows. Besides a few that have no tip over lays, the last 50 had only a top groove.

Mad Max

QuoteOriginally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
I see no benefits to side grooves in any bows. Lots of examples of very extreme designs with just a top groove. Like a Mongol horse bow. I build all wood bows. Besides a few that have no tip over lays, the last 50 had only a top groove.
Most of mine have a groove on top
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

PEARL DRUMS

There are some recurves that have very thin overlays, obviously you wont be using a top groove only. I make my grooves just deep enough that I cant feel my string loop. No clicking, no popping, no string alignment issues at all. Makes it really easy.

goobersan

Obviously the sides will be as smooth as possible.  Are there any issues with the the string loops themselves?  Not doubting years of experience but I would think the inside of the loop would show some wear sliding on the outside of the limb.

PEARL DRUMS

No wear that I can see on the bows or strings. My most shot bow has at least 3-5,000 shots through it.

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