New Hill... New issues

Started by bowhntineverythingnh03743, August 11, 2014, 02:43:00 PM

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bowhntineverythingnh03743

Hey Guys-
With deer season approaching I figure it's time to get my but in gear and build myself a bow. I have gifted the 8 bows that I have built which has left me with nothing for the season.

I am planning on building a new hill style bow. I have been working with Brad on designing the riser of this bow.

My question is the fades are a little steeper than I normally have and am having some fitting issues.

I was wondering is there a way to pre-bend the lams on the fades by using either heat or steam to assist with glue up and making sure everything fits perfect.

Here is my riser so far... it is 1 5/8 tall and 14 inches long

 

Thanks for the help fellas... Looking to get this thing build within the month so I can show it off at my next bowhunter ed class I am teaching on the 31st.

Justin

Trux Turning

Quick question- are you using a hose or rubber bands and how thick are the lams running up the ramp? If you are using a hose you can add some wedges (I use dowels) between the form and the hose in that area to apply more pressure.

bowhntineverythingnh03743


bowhntineverythingnh03743

It's gonna be a .110 butt thickness with .001 taper. One .030 parallel lam of yew too

monterey

One solution is to put a very thin parallel lamb over the riser and keep the tapers under the riser.  Some hills were built with no lam over the top, just the glass.

what are the rest of your specs, eg., total taper, widths, etc.?
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

bamboo

you can back taper[flatten/thin] the  section that sits on the ramps--to make it easier to conform--and shims should help
I have some shims I've cut out of rubber barn mat and sanded to shape for ramps-they go on top of the pressure strips-under the hose
Mike

jsweka

Like monterey said, if you have a thinner lam (parallel or taper)move it to the belly and up the fades.  

I haven't noticed any difference with the order of lams within a stack.
>>>---->TGMM<----<<<<

Trux Turning

Yea I'd put the .110 taper on the face side and run the .030 up the ramp with the glass...

bowhntineverythingnh03743


canopyboy

I use short, steep risers and have had some trouble getting them to close up during dry clampups with thicker lams going up the riser. I have had good luck pre-bending them. I've done it with a heat gun, but my new favorite is just putting the bow in the oven under pressure with no glue. 180 degrees for a few hours and you will see your lams come out bent in the general shape of your form. Add glue and repeat for the final product.
TGMM Family of the Bow
Professional Bowhunters Society

"The earth has its music for those who will listen." - Santayana

bowhntineverythingnh03743

Cool Canopyboy... I will try that next time. I have a new issue where the lams are not tight under pressure just under the riser where they are jointed... Do I need to sand the entire lams to get them to line up correctly?


bowhntineverythingnh03743

Under 70# I still got a ton of light... Don't think it will be an issue because it will be under a leather wrap but still annoys me to no end


TX FLY CASTER

Are there tapers in the back for the bow? Does that for have backset built into? Anytime  put tapers on the back , I put a reverse taper on the press. Many go without it but it glues up good for me.

bowhntineverythingnh03743

Ya I figured it out now... Set the lams lightly on my belt sander till I got them tight... This is a new supplier for lams for me and I don't think that I will use them again. Never had these issues with Kenny... Man I miss Kenny!

typical2

QuoteOriginally posted by bowhntineverythingnh03743:
Set the lams lightly on my belt sander till I got them tight
That is what I do.  What do you see being wrong with the lams?

bowhntineverythingnh03743

The gaps... I usually just join them and they lay completely flat. I dunno if there are ground differently than normal.

Mad Max

don't sand or grind anything yet.
check your riser and form with a straight edge

put some masking tape on the form only under the gap several layers, if that takes the gap out then your form or riser don't match.
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

Overspined

Do what Eric said. Once glued together, just lay the lam center area on a belt and flatten it out a bit. Then it will sandwich nicely and flat. Also, make sure you have enough glue and pressure on the riser.

Overspined

If you have those gaps after glue up, fill it with super glue and ignore it.

bowhntineverythingnh03743

Well got the bow ready to work on the nocks. This bow seemed extremely thick. It's over a half inch thick. Tried to bend it just by pushing on the ground. Son of a gun it barely bends... This thing seems like it's gonna be a 100# bow. So disappointed with everything with this bow. Such a waste of money and time to have a good looking stick.

Time to look up a new supplier and get a correct bow

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