Wooden bow tillering question

[takefive]

Don't know why it took me about 15 bows to ponder this, but this is what I'm wondering:  On a flatbow, once you're past the parallel limbs coming out from the handle, the last half (more or less) of the limb is pyramid shaped to the tip.  Should the tiller for that be mostly side tapering with essentially no tapering of the belly like it's done on a pyramid bow?  On top of that, I usually leave the last 6-8" of the tips stiff and have to factor that in, too, I guess.  Maybe I'm just over thinking the whole thing?    

[Pat B]

Just tiller like you would tiller any bow. A true pyramid bow has even thickness through the limbs and the tiller comes from the taper from handle to tip. It is quite difficult if possible at all to make a true pyramid bow with a stave because of the irregularity of the wood. You can with a board stave because it has been sawn flat. A bow can have a pyramid shape without being a true pyramid bow.
I think you are overthinking it.

[George Tsoukalas]

I like to leave the last 6-8 inches not bending much too.
You have to use your judgement. When an area become too thin then begin to narrow it to bring the tiller home. Jawge

[takefive]

Thanks Pat and Jawge.  I'm working on a red elm bow from a board, just have it floor tillered.  I love the look of elm but have had no success making one that will last any length of time.  My last attempt was a very good shooter until it started to fret 10" from the tip on one limb.  I'm trying to cover all the bases before I tiller this one.    :confused:

[Pat B]

You have to be sure both limbs are bending evenly and together before you move to the next stage of tillering...from floor tiller stage to the final tillering. Elm is an excellent bow wood but like any bow wood you can't rush or try to cut corners. Sounds like you tried to bend that other elm before it was ready.