Index pin to avoid slipping

Started by Nicon, April 10, 2014, 04:33:00 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Nicon

I use a form with rubber band clamping and i seem to have a lot of problem with the riser block slipping. Lams and sideways slipping is usually not a problem. I want to use a thicker riser block that sticks out to the opposite side of the window. Rubber bands would slide it to the middle. So i'm thinking of using a index pin to keep everything in place. I would dry clamp everything to the form and drill a hole where the sight window would be and use a toothpick as a pin.
Opinions and ideas about this plan?

Zradix

I've never tried it myself.

I know of one guy that does what sounds very similar when making all wood bows.

He uses toothpicks as a pin.
If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle

..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear

Roy from Pa

I drill two holes in the center of the handle where the leather grip will cover the holes. I space the holes about 2 inches apart to keep the lams from shifting side to side lengthwise. I insert a tooth pick in each hole.

fujimo

i did the same, on my last glass bow- learnt it from the smart ol' bugger above.
also had a riser slip on me, used only one pin though, maybe next time i will use two!!
and my overlay goes over the hole-i drilled it right in the middle of the handle- so there was no chance of exposing anything when i shaped the handle,
made everything so easy!!

Pat B

I did this for the first time on the hickory baked lemonwood bow I recently built and it worked great. I did it similar to how Roy does.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

talkingcabbage

I will use pins when gluing up risers with lots of accents or a complicated design.  I just drill them in places where overlays will cover later, or where they'll get cut out when shaping the riser.  Works great.
Joe

"If your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt."

One of two things will happen; it'll either work or it won't.

Nicon

Sweet! Nice to know, i'm on the right track!
I wasn't planning on using an overlay on the next build. But i have some leftover piece of black glass, so it will be unnoticeable.

Echatham

Im tryin to figure how to best do that without drilling through the bamboo back... Since im not planning on wrapping with leather.... Wood to pretty.

fujimo

a block of wood with a guide hole drilled through it- place it on the bamboo- drill a hole- not all the way thru- place it on the riser- drill as deep as you need.
so now the holes will line up- kinda like a mini binghams drilling jig!

bamboo

the pin hole here is for a 4d nail ground to a long taper on both ends and waxed--passes trough glass and all lams and 3/8" into the riser-other end into the form---

echatham--maybe you can plan it so a thin overlay  hides the hole
Mike

fujimo


bamboo

spalted cherry--wicked huh!!!I got it it from fellow ganger sharp shooter

here's another view with the grip installed--


any ideas what the I-beam wood is??[very dense/slightest hints of red]
Mike

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2025 ~ Trad Gang.com ©