power strips (picture update)

[b.glass]

I am attempting to build a bow with a power strip for the first time.

I'm finding the making of the power strip to be very tedious. I can't get rid of the gap where the feathered edge of the strip meets the bamboo backing and the belly wood.

Is there an acceptable gap that the Urac can fill?

Bona

[Roy from Pa]

Do you have the feathered edge thin as a sharp knife edge? Urac is very good at filling gaps though.

[macbow]

The key as Roy says very thin  and also  a long taper not,a quick,taper.
I hot melt my slats to a piece of wood for a backing and sand them down on my disk sander.
When I glue them I make sure there is extra glue on those areas and use a C clamp right at that junction.

[vanillabear?]

[b.glass]

I think my biggest problem is the nodes of the boo is so close to the feathered edge. I would love to get a transition like yours vanillabear.

I can post a pic maybe but I already know I don't like what I have.

It is a long taper and it is very thin.

Thanks for responding.

Bona

[macbow]

Bona, if your bamboo and wood are nice and flat having a node close should not matter. I use a small piece of 1/4 inch plywood between the clamp and boo so I can get some pressure. But not enough to starve the joint of glue.

[Roy from Pa]

Bona, call Hova. He has a camera in his sock drawer. LOL

[razorback]

Bona, call Hova. He has a camera in his sock drawer. LOL

[/b]

 
     

[b.glass]

I have a camera....I just don't know how to use it.  :rolleyes:

[b.glass]

I checked my work after talking to y'all and saw room for improvement.

The transition is much better now and I think I might be ok with the glue up. The feathered edge is disintigrating and the taper is even longer. It didn't seem to take much to make a big difference. It's not as good as  yours though vb.

I could see light through it easily before, now it's I difficult to see light or not at all but there is still a slight gap.

[JamesV]

Instead of a power lam the way I move the bend farther down the limb away from the fades is this: When I grind my lams I start my taper
2-2 1/2 inches from the end of the fades and taper to the limb tips.

James

[Crooked Stic]

Lay your power lam on a flat hardwood block with the feathered end even with the end of the hardwood block.Now flat block sand the feather edge untill it is ragged. Drag your flat block toward the feathered end while sanding to prevent splintering it out. You can get them paper thin with this method. I use 40 grit.

[b.glass]

Crooked Stic, I did something like that. I laid it on a pine board and used a toothing plane on it. I got good results that way too. I think my biggest problem was the looong taper. It's been glued up and I need to smush a little more urac in the glue line in a couple of spots before I take her to the bandsaw.

Bona

[b.glass]

This is the bow with the power strip. I've tried to get good pics of the power strip.

[b.glass]

[b.glass]

 

Here are the "flipped" tips I glued on.

[macbow]

Very nice .

[wood carver 2]

Looking good.    
Dave.

[vanillabear?]

[Roy from Pa]

I guess it's ok:)