Lam makin how to

[kennym]

This is to show folks who want to make lams how to.

Or actually how I do it, be it right or wrong!    

[jsweka]

Thanks for giving away the trade secrets Kenny.      

Can you give me the specifics on the bandsaw and blade you use?  

Even with a fence and a relatively new blade, I tend to get some drift in my cuts, so I end up needing to resaw them much thicker than I want too and waste A LOT of material in the sander.

Is it the bandsaw or me    

[Roy from Pa]

I guess they are ok:)

[KellyG]

Those are pretty you can just give them to me at mojam kenny.  

[Teagus]

Kenny, the blade you are using is alot thinner than what I have. What can I go down to to maintain beam strength? OK, what is the blade spec?      

[David Flanrey]

Kenny,thanks for the info bud, but I think I'll just keep gettin mine the easy way.  Ordering them from you.        

I have enough problems getting them all glued together.

[kennym]

(93-1/2 in.) 7 ft. 9-1/2 in. x 1/2 in. x .025 in. x 4TPI, Hook Wood Cutting, Diemaster2

 http://www.toolcenter.com/93912-D2B7-2375.html  

I tried the carbon toothed blades, but they don't stay sharp enough to warrant the cost. The guys who cut 200 bows out, glass and all, must be getting different ones than I've found!    :p    

You could maybe go with the 6 tpi also, but these work so well, I haven't tried em..

My saw is the GO555x , like this...

 http://www.grizzly.com/products/14-Extreme-Series-Bandsaw/G0555X  

I bought this one for the cast iron wheels, figured they would be smoother cutting??    

Love the light on it too..

I have several blades hanging that feel sharp to the fingers, but won't cut without wandering. I just change em out and give the used ones away. Some folks resharpen em, but I don't take the time.

Flat grain woods are the worst for wandering, red elm and osage especially.

[JSMOFFITT03]

Great info Kenny!  I'm a DIY type of guy but I have learned leave some stuff to the pros. On day when I get some good equipment I'll start the teadious stuff.  Until then I'll buy them for the consistancy factor ( and time)

Great  info!

[kennym]

On the subject of getting the blade to track, I put loosen up all the guide bearings, then slooowly adjust each one to where it almost touches the blade when you roll the saw by hand.

Be sure to unplug it!

The guide bearings should be moved forward almost to the gullet of the tooth(deepest part)

The bearings behind the blade should not turn til you start cutting so adjust them up close too.

Remember, this is what works for me, yer mileage may vary!!      

[jsweka]

Thanks for the advice Kenny.

My last couple bows (swap bow included) I made my own lams, but I'm really wondering if I'm not better off just ordering from you......At least then I know they WILL come out at my desired stack.

[kennym]

LOL John!

One other tip, with the tapered blank sawing, you can get more out of core wood boards if you flip the board after the first pair of lams....

[Crooked Stic]

Preacher stick huh just never thought of that--Thanks.

[raghorns]

Kenny,

Thanks for the Koa wood lams...they look great...can't wait to see them in a bow.

Lyle

[kennym]

Thank you Lyle! Remember some pics when done!!  

[Dmaxshawn]

That preacher stick is good idea.  Thanks Bud

[kennym]

Mike and Shawn, that is the one thing I grab for every set of lams, huge time saver!

One other thing I'm gonna have someday is a brake on the bandsaw, hate waitin for it to wind down! LOL

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Man I wish I had the money for a professional band saw like that. Keep up the how to's Kenny, I enjoy all of them.

[beachbowhunter]

Kenny, how do you adjust and set up for drift?  I see you don't use the rounded deal on the guide and freehand.

[goobersan]

quote:Originally posted by kennym:
On the subject of getting the blade to track, I put loosen up all the guide bearings, then slooowly adjust each one to where it almost touches the blade when you roll the saw by hand.

Be sure to unplug it!

The guide bearings should be moved forward almost to the gullet of the tooth(deepest part)

The bearings behind the blade should not turn til you start cutting so adjust them up close too.

Remember, this is what works for me, yer mileage may vary!!        

[fujimo]

i read a good article on re-sawing  with a bandsaw, here is what they said:
first set your saw up as kenny says.
as all blades dont always run parrallel to the fence.
1. take a nice square edged piece of wood say 12" long.
2.draw a line parrallel to the square edge.
3. now with the fence slid out of the way, start to cut down that line as well as you can freehand.
4.when about half way- or at a point where you feel it is running nice and true, dont remove the block, switch off the machine.
5.now bring up the fence and see how it matches the wood, loosen the machine screws or bolts holding the fence to the slide mechanisim.
6.marry the fence to the good edge on the wood. tighten the screws.

now you have a fence that wants to guide like the machine wants to run.
tip: at point 4 i draw a pencil mark on the table of where the wood is lying, and then i clamp that wood to the table- so nothing can move while i am adjusting the fence.

i do this whenever i put on a new blade- just to check- as sometimes a new blade can run a little different.

this is what helped me a bunch- prior to that i hated bandsaws- now i just love mine!!-