sinew backing

Jake Fr · June 23, 2012, 07:02:00 PM

So I have learned in the last day I dont have to go all the way to the tips on backing. So I ask this do I have to use hide glue I have read about ppl useing tightdond 2 so will tight bond 3 work? I am going to cove with snake skins when done to help keep out moister maybe use hide glue tjen tb3 to place skins for the Watter proofer? I dont know what to do just uet any help would be great thanks Jake

John Scifres · June 23, 2012, 07:18:00 PM

I have used TB2 and 3 and they work fine. I prefer hide glue for application but TB2 for shorter curing time. Overall, it's a wash between the 2 for me.

TB will work fine for the skins over a sinew backing no matter which glue you use for the backing.

Steve B. · June 23, 2012, 08:31:00 PM

John has a lot more experience than me so I would listen to him. I would just add that I've experimented with sinew on scrap wood using gelatine and glue and it seemed to me that the glue does not cause the sinew to get soft and stretch out like the hide glue does. But I was not heating the TB2/3, I was applying it cold. Perhaps everyone here assumes the TB is being heated and so I didn't know what I was doing but I assumed it was applied right out of the bottle.

So I guess what I'm wondering is whether the sinew is even doing its job despite that it is glued down well because it is not being stretched.?
Either way, I would still go with knox gelatine because of its strength properties and what I perceive as its affect on the sinew to cause it to stretch out better.

John Scifres · June 23, 2012, 10:09:00 PM

I always wet the sinew before applying regardless of the glue I use.

Jake Fr · June 23, 2012, 10:51:00 PM

Yeah I figured I would have to moisten the sinew and such just didnt know if tb3 would be ok to use I can always get hids glue just thought it might take needing to have every thing warmed as I dont have the crockpots that my wife will let me use for it and im cheap amd didnt buy more stuff if I dont have to

scrub-buster · June 23, 2012, 10:58:00 PM

Get an old coffee pot from a yardsale or a goodwill store. Put a bowl of water on the warmer plate and then put your bowl of glue in the bowl of water. It's kind of like a double boiler.

I started out using this for sinew glue. I took the top of the coffee maker off and just used the bottom part. Now I have a nice double burner hot plate.

Pat B · June 23, 2012, 11:23:00 PM

I bought a crock pot at Good Will fot $5. I fill it up half way with water and float my glue pot in it.
I'd say it depends on the bow whether you use hide glue or TBIII. On a short, highly stressed sinew backed bow I'd use hide glue. On a moderately short bow(60" and up) I think TBIII would work fine.
The two glues are compatable. I have added a coarse of sinew and snake skin backings with TBIII over a hide glue/sinew backed bow and they worked well together.

LittleBen · June 24, 2012, 12:12:00 PM

I've only used hide glue. But it worked great(Knox gelatin glue). Compared to the hassle of shredding sinew the gluing process is minor. Plus you can use the excess hide glue for furniture repair, to thicken soup, or just eat it plain.

Jake Fr · June 24, 2012, 12:48:00 PM

Ok so I will try the hide glue and tb3 for the snake skins I was more worried bout moister while hunting and It coming apart in crunch time but I think the skims and tb3 will fix that. Another thought is I think I can get beef inew from the local packers here is it better or worse or doent matter

scrub-buster · June 24, 2012, 02:38:00 PM

Hide glue with the sinew and TB for the snake skins is the way I do it.

Pat B · June 24, 2012, 02:42:00 PM

After the sinew is well dried put a thin coat of TBIII over the sinew and let it cure completely. Them add the skins with TBIII or hide glue. The thin coat of TBIII will act as a moisture barrier to prevent any of the moisture from the glue from getting back in the sinew/hide glue.

gringol · June 25, 2012, 01:30:00 PM

I soak each sinew bundle in water for about 5 minutes prior to dunking in the hide glue. That gets things nice and limber. I found that too much time in the warm glue pot can make the sinew start to curl up and it gets really hard to use. That's why I pre-soak and then just dunk a few times in the glue.

Also, the finer you can get your sinew threads, the quicker they hydrate and the easier they are to lay on the bow.

I'm working on one now, and it must be 100#. I'm shooting for around 50#, so I have a lot of work to do. The sinew has cured for a few weeks in air, then a couple days in a hot box. I can barely get it to brace height. I think this one is going to be a screamer if it doesn't break me before I get it tillered.

PEARL DRUMS · June 25, 2012, 03:26:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Pat B:
After the sinew is well dried put a thin coat of TBIII over the sinew and let it cure completely. Them add the skins with TBIII or hide glue. The thin coat of TBIII will act as a moisture barrier to prevent any of the moisture from the glue from getting back in the sinew/hide glue.

Ive never done this Pat. But I like the thought behind it and will try it on my current sinewed project. Thanks you ol' pro.