Knotty Stave

[Rick James]

Here are a few more pics of the stave I posted about here:  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=007694  
I have used dry heat to correct some propeller twist out of it--one end has a little dogleg in it that I plan on leaving alone- the other end has a good knot out towards the end and a cluster of pin knots closer to mid limb. On the belly side of the pin knots there is a hole that may come out as I reduce the belly. My question is how would ya'll handle these knotty areas? the wood on the belly side of these areas is very hard...do I just file away at them with the  farriers rasp or the nicholson?? Just wondering how to handle these hard areas that don't seem like they will bend very much if at all.

a not good pic of the whole thing


the knotty areas


the big knot


the pins


belly side of pins


thanks, Rick

[Art B]

Rick, clean up that area on the belly of the big knot so you can see the growth rings. And let those rings be you guide. Belly rings will dip probably in that area and you'll only have a small island ring left.

As far as those pin knots, one on the edge will work off as you round or trap that side. If you're afraid of the one in the middle then super glue a round leather patch over it and make it look like a knot.

[Rick James]

OK I started to do a little cleanup on the belly and getting the limbs shaped out--here are a few pics of the pin knot area on the upper limb:
the belly side


the right side view


the left side view


the back

So should I follow those growth rings on the belly side and kinda keep basically the same thickness as the clear part of the limb--this would leave the limb with a kind of wavy whoop-te-do at the knotty area? OR should I leave extra thickness at this point?

This is the only the pin knot area--I haven't got to the Big Knot yet but I think it will look much the same...

thanks, Rick

[Art B]

Follow the contour of the back Rick. Try scribing that area following the back using a pencil. Those little whoop-te-dos look cool, and besides, are very strong.

On those doglegs, best to heat and straingten on both sides to align. Just too shape a bend in 'em to safely straighten.

[Rick James]

OK Thanks Art, I'll give that a shot--As far as the dogleg I think I may just do another small correction at the handle for tip alignment and leave the dogleg alone-I also may have to make one more correction for twist and if I do I'll probably do it when I heat the handle.
I really appreciate your help!
thanks again, Rick

[Goose Gossett]

Art is on the right track. Just superglue anything you question as an issue and go slow or you'll end up with a 35# bow if you're shooting for 50#  :D

[Rick James]

OK, I've got this thing down to where I can bend it a few inches while floor tillering--next Question is what to do with the bottom limb--Would ya'll try to straighten this out any or leave it like it is?? The color is not good but you can see the curve:







top limb

[fujimo]

wow that is looking nice so far.- with such natural r/d, can one not try and heat in a similar shape on the other limb?

[Art B]

I would at least strive for a straight profile on the lower limb to start with Rick. A little bit of correction mid-limb and you're there......Art

[George Tsoukalas]

I might be inclined to straighten up that limb in the second from the last picture. The limb is in the foreground. All you'll need is a heat gun some grease and a vice. Jawge

[George Tsoukalas]

Here's how I do it. I used steam in this buildalong. I'd be more inclined to use dry heat in your case. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/webbaby.html

[Rick James]

OK, I used the heat gun and now this is what I have:









Now how do you know when to go from floor tiller to a tree or long string?
Thanks, Rick

[Art B]

At this stage Rick, you want to have the bow's back completely finished. Get the bow's back profile where you want it and round off all corners (belly too). If adding overlays later then don't round off the corners within 2" of the tips. Sides and back should be keep to the point of adding a finish. You want to be concerned with work on the belly only at this time.

What length bow are you after?

Looks like you don't need any belly taper with your limb design as of now. What's your minimum limb thickness for both limbs now?

[Rick James]

Thanks Art, the stave is 67" long ttt so I guess somewhere between 64 to 66 inches-- the minimum thickness on the knotty limb is a hair under a 1/2" right past the big knot and 1/2"+ on the rest of it and on the clean limb I have a good 1/2" to 5/8"  everywhere. Both limbs are 1 5/8" at the fades and 1 1/8" midlimb and then 5/8" at the tips...
thanks again, Rick

[Art B]

Generally with that type limb design you would want to start with the same limb thickness from fade to tips. And most often any wood removal is done closer to mid-limb which bleeds off weight the least. Any belly taper with that pyramid limb design will result in removing wood near handle which bleeds off weight the quickest. For your next bow of this type try keeping at a minimum 5/8" limb thickness and that'll leave you with many other options.

You're after more of a circular bend to your bow rather than and elliptical shape. Try getting both limbs bending the same and shoot for an even tiller on the board/tree. Go to the short string as soon as possible and finish tillering your bow out while it's strung at regular brace height. Tiller tree with the long string will only give you a false profile.

[Rick James]

OK this is what I got so far with the Knotty Stave 65" ntn and 45# @ 25"

Unstrung


Braced


@25 Inches


Sorry about the background -- I know the pics are a little dark--this is my first bow from a stave...
thanks, Rick

[Art B]

Hey, that's looking pretty good Rick. How you shot it yet? If you're close to the weight you want, try for even limb strain at full draw. But if you do have any weight to spare, you could get the center of the bow (handle area/fades) working just a bit.

[Rick James]

Thanks, Art--I have shot it a little and I would have liked for it to come out closer to 50#--My arrows aren't spined quite right and I was shooting off my knuckle but overall I was pleased with the way it shot--I have actually thought about shortening it up about an inch on each end to see if I could get the weight up a little but right now that's still just a thought...
thanks again, Rick

[Rick James]

[John Scifres]

excellent job.  Make your left limb look like your right limb, and then you can shorten to bring up weight.  Do it 1" at t atime until you have your weight.  You can go as short as 60" for a 25" draw and still have a comfortable bow to shoot.