Who makes the darkest black actionwood type material ?

Zradix · January 31, 2011, 01:58:00 AM

Hello!

Looking to buy some riser wood.
I'm looking for the darkest black/gray color I can find.

I want to use action wood type material.
I've looked at stratabond's, spectrawood's websites.
Their gray stuff looks pretty "silverish" in the photos.

The darkest I've found is Dymondwood that I've seen on Silvertip bows. However I'm reluctant to use that material since it can come loose while cooking the bow.

Thanks for the help.

razorsharptokill · January 31, 2011, 11:54:00 AM

You could stain the actionwood darker once you have it finish sanded?

Zradix · January 31, 2011, 11:58:00 AM

I have had that thought too.
In the past when I've stained after glue up I've run into problems getting the stain to take where the glue has penetrated at the fades.

Thank you for the suggestion.

GREG IN MALAD · January 31, 2011, 01:28:00 PM

Zradix,
There is a bunch of dymondwood used in top quality bows such as the Silvertip, that should tell you that it works fine. You can always bake it below 150 degrees if you're concerned about delaminating. The darkest laminate material is ebony dymondwood, but hang onto your wallet because it's made with real ebony. The next darkest is charcoal dymondwood.

Dave Worden · February 01, 2011, 03:33:00 PM

You make the darkest "black wood". Getsome aniline dye (not stain, dye) and apply that to the Dymondwood. If you mix it with alcohol, you can get it diluted all the way to light gray. If you don't dilute it, I'm sure it'll be black enough for you. If you apply the dye after shaping the riser, I can't believe that you'll have any noticable grays due to glue lines. I guess, to make sure, just glue up some scraps, shape them a bit, then dye them. I do think this is the way to get a truly black black. Dymondwood is fine in the oven at 185 degrees. At least is has been on the two bows that I've made. Another option, don't cook the bow. All the heat box does is speed up the setting of the glue. Just clamp it up and leave it in the form for a day or two if you want to cook it.

Zradix · February 01, 2011, 03:49:00 PM

I appreciate the info.

This is direct from Smooth-on ea-40 tech info...

"APPLYING, CURING & PERFORMANCE...
Apply to prepared surface and let cure for 24 hours. Applying mild heat will
cure EA-40® faster – 150°F/65°C for 6 hours.

Post Curing - After EA-40® has cured at room temperature, heating the epoxy to
150° F (65° C) for 4 to 8 hours will increase physical properties and performance. Let
cool to room temp. before moving bonded substrates, machining, etc."

Makes me want to heat it awhile.

Dave Worden · February 01, 2011, 04:16:00 PM

I didn't re-read your question before answering it. Dye the riser before glue-up. If you're worried about the fades, that will solve the problem. As for the areas that are uncovered in shaping the riser, just dye them after the riser is completed. If you're in Shelby Township and not Shelby by Lake Michigan, give me a holler (248 625 1385)if you want to play with some dye without having to buy any. I still have some left from a bow I made. I dyed the face veneers, not the riser so I can't tell you how Dymondwood absorbs the dye.

Zradix · February 01, 2011, 04:41:00 PM

Thank you for the offer.
I have some dye I can try. In fact I have it on a 2x4 under bright light right now to see if it fades.

I am in Shelby by the lake though.

Thank you

HMlongbow · February 04, 2011, 07:24:00 PM

Old Mastercrafters, John Girardi has some new wood that is like the actionwood but called Spectraply. It holds the colors truer and is about the same in working. He can be contacted at: 847-623-2660. He definetely has the best prices and let him know Dave sent ya.
Thanks

Zradix · February 04, 2011, 08:14:00 PM

I've sent a couple emails to Mr. Giradi.
I'm thinking that the spectraply silvertone is too light.
I see they have a new "onyx" line.
I'm trying to find out if they offer an all onyx (black) material. Also, and preferably, a alternating black and gray.
It's been a few days sine he's got back with me.
Might have to call Mon.

Thanks for the help Bowdoc.

Sixby · February 04, 2011, 08:39:00 PM

Black and blue woud sure be a neat combyo as would black and red. I could really go for a black and red combination. I'm thinking about just making some up out of macassar and purpleheart. 1/6 in lams and smooth on. That would be sweet. God Bless you all, Steve

Zradix · February 04, 2011, 09:38:00 PM

They would be sharp!
They have some really neat colors.
Just hope I can find what I'm hoping for.

Jason Kendall · February 04, 2011, 09:48:00 PM

I tried the Spectraply in black and red, it looked more gray and pink when complete. They can glue up whatever colors you want. While I dont think it has the quality of Stratabond, it is cheaper and still makes for a great handle section. I did however use it for flat grain veneers on 4 different bows and they all cracked at the glue line. It's stratabond for me! The new Onyx may be just the ticket for dark handles though, hmm.

Zradix · February 04, 2011, 11:06:00 PM

Jason...

How thin were the ven. and where in the limb did it crack?

I'm having a heck of a time finding what I want.

I have a Boyds rifle stock made from stratabond that got multiple small cracks.

Looking for something dark..

Dymond wood shouldn't be heated.

spectraply cracks...

Jeez is there anything made that worth a darn???

I'm really getting frustrated....

Jason Kendall · February 04, 2011, 11:41:00 PM

I just had it crack on .025 flat grain veneers mid limb. I wouldnt worry about it to much, since then Curtis (the rep) told me they switched to the same glue stratabond has in it. A friend of mine has used it in close to 100 handles and has never had an issue. I am sure edge grain lams would be fine too.

Zradix · February 05, 2011, 12:50:00 AM

That is reassuring!
Thank you!