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FLUSH CUT ROUTER BITS

Started by RAU, December 18, 2010, 01:23:00 PM

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RAU

Wheres the best place to get a 2" depth of cut flush cut patternmakers router bit?

Ricky Wallace

Have you checked Rocklerwood.com?  They have almost anything,good quality to.
If you expect nothing from anyone,you will never be dissapointed. Watch,Listen,Learn U.S.ARMY  '86 '91

Misguided One

Here is the place the company I work for orders bits from. They are a little more expensive than buying them at the big box stores, but they have just about any bit you could possibly need.

http://www.hartlauer-bits.com/

mtquivers

Van Bateman

Robertfishes


akgator

An important safety tip: if you are making a new form and drive screws close to the edge where you will be routing, make sure you drive them straight. Just a little contact with a metal screw will absolutely trash a brand new $45 router bit. I won't make that expensive mistake again...

rbbhunt

RBBHUNT
"Those who will trade liberty for
security, deserve niether" B. Franklin (a long time ago and still valid)

Jeremy

>>>-TGMM Family Of The Bow-->
CT CE/FS Chief Instructor
"Death is not the greatest loss in life.  The greatest loss is what dies inside us while we live." - Norman Cousins

ChristopherO

Woodline is less costly and hold up pretty decent.

beachbowhunter

Has anyone found a top bearing bit for a 1/4 inch shank that is 1 3/4 or longer?  Seems the 2" ones are all 1/2 " shank.  Dont want to have to buy another router. but might have to. I've done the two pass, but I think the 1/4 inch shank is not stiff enough to keep everything square when it is extended way out.
Ishi was a Californian                   :cool:

Mad Max

The ones at the big box store are not flush cut, they are made for trimming laminate tops, so it cuts close but not flush. I think I am going to buy a 1/2" router and get the long bit and cut it in one pass.
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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beachbowhunter

I think I might have to do that too.  Pulling the 1" bit so far out gives me the willies and I think it is a bit off square.
Ishi was a Californian                   :cool:

monterey

Quote from: beachbowhunter on March 25, 2020, 02:16:53 PM
I think I might have to do that too.  Pulling the 1" bit so far out gives me the willies and I think it is a bit off square.

i just bought one recently but don't remember where I got it.  But, one inch cut was the longest I could find for a 1/4" shaft.  If you find something longer please post it.  But, the 1/2 router is probably the solution.  Hate to spend the money given that I hardly ever use the router for anything but forms.
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

Mad Max

I agree Monterey but you could always sell it later when you get old---older :)
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

buddyb

Robert how does the router table work and are you doing one piece longbow forms or takedown forms? I haven't tried it yet I have the same setup.
BuddyB

Robertfishes

BuddyB, I have made 2 one piece Recurve forms, a form for a 66" R/D longbow and a ILF limb form using the Router table. I had never touched a Router before making those forms.. I tried to use the 2" bit without the table and it did not go well,very hard to control. So I purchased the table and got it done. I was talking with Steve Jewett a couple of weeks ago and he has made a good number of forms.. It sounds like he routes his forms the same as KennyM, Kenny might have a video or pictures of his process. 

monterey

Quote from: Mad Max on March 25, 2020, 05:39:12 PM
I agree Monterey but you could always sell it later when you get old---older :)

I ve been missing Roy since he went MIA but you are filling in nicely.

:biglaugh:
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

Mad Max

I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

buddyb

I tried the freehand router and it didn't work out well for me either. I'll try the table.

thanks.
BuddyB

Robertfishes

#19
Buddy,I'll try to tell you how I did it..Didnt get good sleep last night, I have not had to make a new form in 5 years, I am not a wood worker by trade so I have only used the router for bow forms.... First I  Remove as much wood as I can before routing.. I use a 6 ft straight edge to mark a straight line onto form for bottom of template, then screw a template onto form, trace line onto form, remove template, cut about 3/16 from line, using my belt edge sander sand 1/8 inch from line then screw template back onto form and use router table to cut final wood surface. Checking the surface with a good square I mark any divots ( i usually get one) and fill them in with bondo, Then I use 3M High temp 90 spray contact glue to glue a piece of 040 black glass on top of the cut form, Guys like kennym that have great skill with their routers can skip the glass..

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