What bandsaw blade?

[Russell S.]

So i picked up a 50$ ols 12" Craftsman band saw today.  it has a ~14 TPI 3/8 inch blade on it.  The blade burned 1.5" maple, i did manage to take a 18" long 1/8 inch think sliver off a 3/4 in oak board.  The saw accepts up to a 1/2 blade, so the question is what width and TPI do i want for
a) cutting thin lams for riser
b) cutting curved lines in riser/form?

[Apex Predator]

I'm no expert, and often have to ask these same questions. I use a 1/2" blade with 4 tpi.  They work great for what I do, but dull quickly.  I need to break down and buy a carbide blade.  Unless you have a carbide blade, glass will ruin any blade you try cutting it with.

[Russell S.]

thanks marty, i am going to go by sears on the way home from work.

[Robertfishes]

I also have an older 12inch Craftsman bandsaw. I bought a set of cool blocks and a 1/2 inch 4tpi carbide blade for it. I have cut some glass and phenolic with it but not alot. I use a belt sander with a 50 grit belt to shape my limbs,it does this very fast. I use the band saw to make my riser cuts so it does cut a little fiberglass, so far it seems to be as good as new. if you use the search function and type in bandsaw blade you will get more info

[Tom Leemans]

Make sure you tune the saw correctly too. Suffolk Machinery has some good info on their site. You can have a great blade but if the saw isn't tuned, it won't cut worth a crap. I'd go with 4 TPI 1/2" blade too.  http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp  
They also sell Timberwolf silicon steel blades, when you're ready to step up. Nice folks to deal with too.

[Allen Ziebarth]

I second the timberwolf silicon steel blades.
Top notch. Cut very straight and last for a long time. With a properly set up bandsaw.

[vanillabear?]

[jess stuart]

I do not use my bandsaw to roughf out my limbs, choose to grind which saves the blade.  I also cut my sight window out before gluing up the bow.  I wrap the part I cut out in plastic and put back into the riser section, after gluing I have been able to get it out without too much trouble.  Only problem it predetermines which will be the lower limb. By adjusting one of my tapers I am able to make the desired limb stronger.  Just how I do it and it saves on blades.

[Russell S.]

Thanks for all the input guys.  i tuned the band saw the best i could.  then trued up my riser block (its 2 3/4 maple boards together)  I was able to take wood off in less then1/16" passes checked it with a level and square, came out true..  Next to cut the bend in it for the ipe inlay...

[Russell S.]

oh starting out with 1/2 4 TPI cheep sears blade, works much better then my fathers 9" band saw with 3/16 inch blades

[kennym]

Rule # 1 don't cut fiberglass!

I grind my limbs completely,switch sides so they don't get too hot.

The sears blade will work nicely for wood for a good while.