How Do You Make a Handle?

[UnderControl16]

Hi guys. So I'm still fairly new to making my own bows and i've had some luck in it but how do you shape the handle and not worry about it being to weak for the poundage? Also what is the normal shape for a handle? If anyone could point me somewhere to get help or could post pictures of their handle it would be most appreciated...

[Pat B]

Here are the handles I like on my bows. They are called a bulbous type of handle. You can see that they are thicker than the limbs. I prefer for my limbs to bend right up to the handle but not always.
  In my opinion you shouldn't shape your handle until the tillering is done. There is no need to and by leaving it bulky you have a place to clamp your bow while you are reducing and tillering the limbs. After you have the limbs tillered and you are at the desired weight then you can shape your handle to suit yourself and you shouldn't have to worry about the handle bending...unless you want a bendy handled bow.
 If you are dealing with a board bow with a glued on riser you want to start off with the full thickness board(approx 3/4" thick), add the handle riser and then begin reducing the limbs. In the end, you want the riser sitting above the plane of the limb belly. That way the handle area won't bend and the riser will stay in place without popping off.
 

[bigcountry]

I don't have too many pictures, but I have been making mine pistol griped or contoured.  I have made them bulbed before.

[George Tsoukalas]

There's info on my site. Jawge

[Roy Steele]

BIG COUNTRY I also build some of my bowws either pistol griped or simi pistol griped.But I build my fades up closer into the hanlde.When tillerintg it will be easer and your limbs been down closer to the handle.You will have less hand shock also.Don't have pictures it's dark and late here.I'll try to post some tommorow.
 Other than a center line center of the bow line,lines where fades end.I rasp it all in my hand.I rasp my handle in as soon as my limbs are rasped out and my bach is ready.I rasp in my handle.
 My tillering board head can be changed for what ever kind of handle is made into your bow.That way for tiller  right from your shelf height.

[Jack Skinner]

Couple of versions of the bulbous handle.

Pat B and I must have gone to the same bowyers school. Although he paid a lot more attention than me his work is always B-E-A-utiful.

Narrow bulbous

Not very deep or wide


Wider and deeper handle

[shamus]

selfbow handle dimensions from my site.  

I hope it helps

[Pat B]

Jack, since reading Dean Torges' Book,"Hunting the Osage Bow" I have been building these bulbous handles. I like packing out the back of the handle with leather for a more comfortable grip.

[Jack Skinner]

Pat B

Same,Same

Until Torges book I used more of a Hill style handle. Now I like the way the bulbous handle sits in my hand at full draw.

Where is Brevard? I grew up south of Hope Mills (Fayettville). I was an Army brat until I went AD AF.

[UnderControl16]

Thanks a ton everybody I think I know what i'm doing a little bit more now.    I'll have to post some pics of the bow that i'm working on right now eventually.

[DCM]

I like to build up the arrow shelf w/ leather, rather than cut into the wood for selfbows.  For glass lam no worries.  Thickness is the secret to avoid bending, and you can get away with quite a bit of narrow width at the arrow pass.  For most bows I try about 7/8" x 1 1/4" or more at the arrow pass.

More pictures here.

http://home.comcast.net/~dcm4

Handle/fades area can make or break a bow, in terms of aesthetics.  In very general terms, more experieced bowyers tend to not leave them square, and get downright scary little in the "throat" of the grip, essentially at or about the web of ones thumb up to the arrow pass.

[Art B]

From the Old Bowhunter (Chester Stevenson)............talking about a short 4' 10" 75# yew bow. "The handle is narrow, three-eighths by two and one-half inches".

You gotta love those old timers! Lot to learn from 'em too!

ART B