Rhea Hawk

[Lin Rhea]

I was demonstrating forging for the school kids this week and had a very old bar found here on the museum property. 5/16 X 1 1/2 maybe? I just started fullering and eyeballing and hammering till I turned about 6 1/2 inches of it into this hawk head. I put a 5160 bit into the edge. I folded this hawk in the same basic process as the axes I make. It's 5 1/2 inches from edge to back and the edge is 2 3/4 inch. I'll get a haft made soon for it.
 
 

[Lamey]

nice Lin,  lookin fwd. to seeing it with haft.

[bjansen]

Excellent

[2treks]

Oh boy, you are doing some cool stuff Mr.Rhea.
CTT

[akaboomer]

I can't wait to see that one done. I wish I had more time to forge, you post a lot of things I want to try.

Chris

[Lin Rhea]

Thanks guys. I started getting the Maple handle ready.
 

[kansas stik man]

wow that would make a beautiful thrower

[Lin Rhea]

Got it done.
 
 
The photo is real including the light rays. But I did crop it on an IPhone app.
 

[Firstarrow]

Wow! Awesome! What is the over all length?

[Lin Rhea]

16 1/2 inches. Thanks

[Lamey]

Lin give a little insight how you carved the handle?

[Lin Rhea]

Matt,
      This is one of those things. It's hard to describe but I'll try. Not that it's so hard to actually do, but describing it is.
       First, I used a sure nuff tomahawk drift that I purchased. I could have made one but mine might have been shaped a little different and that would mean any handles I bought would have to have some customizing. So I bought one to get the shape in mind and have a gauge to go by for the size as well as the taper. The taper is important. (See footnote) I made this one because I had the material and wanted to get a good understanding of it. So, number one, have a target size and shape.
     Second, Decide the size on the other end, assuming it is close to the shape of the top, just smaller. Then I try to make everything in between taper gently to both sizes. A spoke shave is nice for straight grained woods, but it wanted to tear this curly Maple. Make it a couple inches too long and trim it after you get the head settled into a place you like that allows the handle length you want. Allow for the finish sanding to get it's final resting place.  

Footnote: I mentioned getting an understanding. This is what I mean. If the taper is too shallow, it might conceivably slip too far up the handle as you use it. If it's too steep, the head wont grip the handle and it will always get loose. Think of the taper on a drill chuck. Buying a drift, even a cheap one, will get your eye calibrated to an approximate size and taper.

[Lamey]

yeah i have a drift coming,  made one but want to make sure the specs are close enough that i can use pre made hafts.

I have a bunch of curly maple big enough for hafts, but not sure it is worth the time to cut/sand by hand etc.  wish I could find a wood working shop to make them for me!

[akaboomer]

Thats just beautiful.  I definitely want to try one.

Chris

[amar911]

I really like the head, but the curly maple handle is just gorgeous! Great hawk, Lin.

Allan

[Hummer3T]

wow, that is a beautiful thing.