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1095 vs 01 tool steel

Started by jackie, June 14, 2011, 05:08:00 PM

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jackie

can i harden o1 tool steel just like 1095. which is heat to non-magnetic  then quench in 150degree quenching oil then heat in a 400 degree oven for two hours.  is 01 tool steel a litte more rust resistant than 1095 thankyou  jackie

kbaknife

The procedure you described would be more suited to O1 than 1095.
You already have it figured out.

O1 has more chromium, so may resist corrosion a LITTLE BIT more, but both need to be watched after.
When the last deer disappears into the morning mist,
When the last elk vanishes from the hills,
When the last buffalo falls on the plains,
I will hunt mice for I am a hunter and I must have my freedom.
Chief Joseph

charlie phillips

I've only used 1095.I'm gonna try 01 TOOL STEEL.I only got a simple brick forge.I LEARN STUFF HERE EVER DAY,THANKS ANDERSEN FORGE.


 TXCP

OconeeDan

Karl, why do you say that is more suitable for O1?  
Dan

Emmons

1095 requires and fast quench, where as O1 will require a Med. speed quenching oil.  Also in order to get the best proformance from O1 you need to soak at temperture (10 minutes), this is also required with 1095, but less time.

James

gudspelr

This very well could be a dumb question but I figure if I ask then maybe I'll get less dumb...  Where would a guy get information like this on several of the steels commonly used for knives?  It seems like most have some particulars (soak times at specific temps, etc.) that vary, and sometimes a great deal.  Is there a book, chart, or site that lists the info or is it what you've learned over the years?  Thanks.

Jeremy
"Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
- William Morris

Craftsmen strive to make their products both.

kbaknife

QuoteOriginally posted by Emmons:
1095 requires and fast quench, where as O1 will require a Med. speed quenching oil.  Also in order to get the best proformance from O1 you need to soak at temperture (10 minutes), this is also required with 1095, but less time.

James
Perfect explanation.
When the last deer disappears into the morning mist,
When the last elk vanishes from the hills,
When the last buffalo falls on the plains,
I will hunt mice for I am a hunter and I must have my freedom.
Chief Joseph

kbaknife

QuoteOriginally posted by gudspelr:
This very well could be a dumb question but I figure if I ask then maybe I'll get less dumb...  Where would a guy get information like this on several of the steels commonly used for knives?  It seems like most have some particulars (soak times at specific temps, etc.) that vary, and sometimes a great deal.  Is there a book, chart, or site that lists the info or is it what you've learned over the years?  Thanks.

Jeremy
More like a combination of both the scenarios you mention.
It's like slowly gathering this info and then utilizing it until one can make sense of it.
That's why it behooves a maker to pick ONE steel and learn it WELL, such as its forging and hardening procedures, proper quenchants, austenizing steps, post forging and annealing sequences, tempering, etc. possibly creating a small data base of this info, and THEN moving on to another steel.
For performance reasons only, I could use 5160 and never use another steel and be semi-happy.
Learning a whole bunch of steels is just plain fun!
When the last deer disappears into the morning mist,
When the last elk vanishes from the hills,
When the last buffalo falls on the plains,
I will hunt mice for I am a hunter and I must have my freedom.
Chief Joseph

gudspelr

That's a great bit of advice Karl.  I should probably listen to it .... :) .  That would also help solve a monetary problem of investing in multiple quenchants for the time being.

Jeremy
"Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
- William Morris

Craftsmen strive to make their products both.

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