Bare shaft tunng question

Curtiss Cardinal · August 28, 2007, 08:10:00 PM

I was bare shaft testing some different carbon shafts. I was shooting right handed. The one that shot best shot just slightly nock right.This means just a tad stiff right? so going up in point weight some and it should be perfect right?

JImmyDee · August 28, 2007, 08:59:00 PM

That's right. Just make sure you're showing stiff at more than one distance -- like two steps, four steps, and six steps away from the target.

Pullonmylimb · August 28, 2007, 09:39:00 PM

When you bareshaft you have to compare the point of impact between fletched and unfletched arrows. Check this link out, it explains it better than I can.
http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

Curtiss Cardinal · August 29, 2007, 12:06:00 AM

it showed stiffer at 2 steps than it did at 4 which was showing stiffer than 6 at 10 sjust the smallest indication. I think if I got to a full 400 grains up front or maybe 100 more I'll be spot on and that is what I want ridulously FOC carbons. I should say the arrows are not going too far away from where I am looking. Just shoowing slightly nock right on the paper.

JImmyDee · August 29, 2007, 08:52:00 AM

That's what you want to see: they're stiff but they're close. Shafts that are way off, especially when too limber, waggle all over the place.

Curtiss Cardinal · August 29, 2007, 10:33:00 AM

that's what I thought.

Al Dean · August 30, 2007, 02:04:00 AM

I think a little stiff is good if you are adding broadheads. Depending on type of broadhead it will move point weight 1/4-1/2" forward essentually lengthening your arrow.

JImmyDee · August 30, 2007, 10:19:00 PM

...and that's why, every year, the thought comes to me, "These are bareshafting just a might stiff with field points, but what about...?"

And, every year, I remind myself, "Don't bareshaft with broadheads!"

Al Dean · August 31, 2007, 03:33:00 AM

If my fletched shafts are hitting 4" rt at 20 yds and I puy my STOS BH on they hit perfect on point. Need to figure out how to compensate for that when bare shafting. Answer bareshaft a little stiff.

NoCams · September 01, 2007, 08:59:00 AM

Don't forget about the 30-40 grains you are adding with feathers !!! I do just the opposite, I like mine either right on, flying straight, or a tad bit weak. When I add the feathers it will stiffen it right back up. JMHO.

nocams

archrmn · September 01, 2007, 03:58:00 PM

Bareshating today dont know if its a good thing but shot at 15yrds,is that to far of could you do it at more.

NoCams · September 02, 2007, 11:40:00 AM

The further the better ! If you can get a bareshaft to fly 50 yds then you have the ultimate in tuning. I shoot with a gent from time to time and he can group a bareshaft with his feathered shafts at 40-50yds ! Bareshaft flight is a indicator of bow tuning and You, ( form ). If it will fly straight that far then all is well with the bow tune and you too.

nocams

bkupris · September 02, 2007, 02:20:00 PM

Sorry but I disagree with this. What you really want is to tune your bow and arrows so your end result is as small groups as possible with your fletched arrows. Bareshafting past 30 yards is a waste of time IMHO. Bareshafts grouping with your fletched arrows does not guarantee your fletched arrows will group at their tightest, it's only a starting point.

Do you score points/shoot animals with your bareshafts or fletched arrows? Think about it...

Scott J. Williams · September 05, 2007, 05:30:00 PM

Bkupris, I agree and disagree. It has been my experience that I get the best grouping when I have bare shafted by bow for tune. In most cases, I have nothing to do beyond that point. I do believe that for those who can't keep it together to get that 50 yard bare shaft tune, the following will fill the bill. This is where I agree with you O great one.

Once you have achieved the best bare shaft tune possible, you should shoot your broadhead tipped arrows with your field points. You will be attempting to get them both to hit at the same point, you will be making this adjustment by moving your nocking point, up or down. Shoot these arrows for group over the distances that you will be shooting at game, it is a waste of time to shoot out to fifty yards here, after all we are doing this for hunting. You will be amazed at the confidence you will have when you see what you and your bow are capable of. If you broadheads are hitting below your field points, you should lower your nocking point a 32nd at a time.

You will find that once you have found the right arrow shaft during your bare shaft, it is wiser to adjust for left and right shooting by dealing with your brace height. You might be suprised to learn that you bow shoots a little more silently when that "sweet spot" is found.

capt eddie · September 05, 2007, 09:30:00 PM

Scotty:
I hope you are right about lowering the nock if the broadheads are hitting low. I have been raising it. It is to late to check out your idea. I will be at first light.

Scott J. Williams · September 06, 2007, 12:06:00 PM

Capt Eddie,

Don't get fooled, you can raise you point so high that the arrow will actually strike the shelf or rest hard and kick up giving you the oposite impression of what you think. If all is well and you are hitting low, a slight incremental lowering, about a 32nd at at time. Mark the starting point if it gets worst, move back to the orginial spot and move the other way. Remember nocking point will dictate nock high, nock low, and proposing issues. Brace height will determine left and right impact as long as we have established that we are shooting the right spined arrow....I will check back to see your progress.

bkupris · September 06, 2007, 05:10:00 PM

Hi Scott

Interesting thread. I personally tune to what I am shooting ie broadheads or field points separately. They don't always fly the same so why try and make them if you have to sacrifice your group sizes? I think finding the sweat spot with your bow also must include finding the correct brace height. Usually when your bow shoots at it's quietest I think the correct brace height has been found. When I am getting ready for hunting I practice with the broadheads I am going to hopefully do the business with. Maybe I am splitting hairs here but after several years shooting target FITA rounds with some shooters much better than myself I have learned (from them)that the only thing the big guns care about is getting the specific arrows they are shooting in the middle and grouping as tight as possible. I think the same applies to when we are hunting?

capt eddie · September 06, 2007, 10:48:00 PM

Scotty
I tried lowering the NP but it got worse. I raised 1/8 higher then normal and it improved. Added to the side plate and it helped also. Still terrible.

Traditional-Archer · September 16, 2007, 11:18:00 AM

C2,
Try giving the arrows you are shooting or testing. The bow you are shooting of the shelf or elevated rest. Arrow set up weight tube weight insert and so on. Sometimes left right could be a form problem not arrow. There is so much to check fine tuning takes time and that is the great thing, if you wake up in the morning God has given you one more day to figure it out.
Bare shafting at 10 steps or 100 steps will not make a differance. If your arrow is not tuned at 10 steps you will be lucky to find your arrow at 50 keep to the basics post some pictures Terry Green and the rest on the Gang will help believe me they have helped me.

O.L. Adcock · September 16, 2007, 12:42:00 PM

Brian, "They don't always fly the same so why try and make them if you have to sacrifice your group sizes?"

There is no evidence to support that. Field tips and matched weight broadheads will fly to the same point of impact if well tuned. If they don't your tuning is off period and neither are flying where they should.....O.L.