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Started by Jon Stewart, August 26, 2017, 04:24:00 PM

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Jon Stewart

I am drawing 29 1/2" arrow using a 45# @ 28" Kodiak Hunter.  You think I can use 2018's?  Would like to know before I fletch them up before my upcoming bear hunt.

mark Willoughby

They should work fine with about a 125 grain head
Never spend your money before you have earned it ,.... Thomas Jefferson

If you want something you've never had , you must be willing to do something you've never done ,... Thomas Jefferson

29.5" bop with a 2016 and 160 grains of point weight is a dynamic of 47.4.  If the bow string is leaving your finger tips at 28.5", that would give a bow dynamic of 45.7.  The dynamic spine of a 2018 that is 29.5" bop with 125 would be way over 60 pounds, almost 65 pounds.

Orion

If memory serves, the Hunter is cut to center.  At a 29 1/2-inch draw, I think you'll be fine with 2018s. Fletch one up and see.

Here's a question for y'all:  

Why not take the time to measure the actual center-cut (and actual draw weight) to be sure....and then consider the actual point weight...  You cannot arrive at an accurate "dynamic spine" until you know exactly what the required input is....

Paven sez: 29.5" bop with a 2016 and 160 grains of point weight is a dynamic of 47.4. If the bow string is leaving your finger tips at 28.5", that would give a bow dynamic of 45.7. The dynamic spine of a 2018 that is 29.5" bop with 125 would be way over 60 pounds, almost 65 pounds"

mark Willoughby sez: "They should work fine with about a 125 grain head"...

Orion sez: "If memory serves, the Hunter is cut to center. At a 29 1/2-inch draw, I think you'll be fine with 2018s. Fletch one up and see"

This question surfaces at least once each week, every month,  of every year and ALWAYS generates conflicting data!

Orion

Of course, we weren't provided with the actual draw weight or amount of center cut.  That's usually the way it is.  A lot of folks don't know how or don't want to measure these things even if we explain how to do it.  Thus, we give the best advice we can based on the information given.  

Even with the same data, different people will need different spines because of differences in the way they shoot.  That's why there are differences in the responses given. Regardless, they all get the OP in the ballpark.  From there, it's his job to find what works best for him.

This isn't rocket science.  Most bows will shoot a range of spines.  Though there probably is one optimal arrow spine/bow weight/design/draw length, etc. combination, most of us don't have  good enough form to find it through bare shafting.  Luckily, we don't have to be because a range of arrow length/weight/spine/weight forward, etc. combinations will work just fine.

Most of us who have been around a while recognize there's more than one correct answer to most questions. But we're fortunate  to have you to correct us when we're wrong.

QuoteOriginally posted by Orion:
Of course, we weren't provided with the actual draw weight or amount of center cut.  
Exactly...."no draw weight and center cut"....so, rather than just post a stab in the dark (and that's exactly what it is without those two significant variables to the equation), why doesn't anyone in this conversation take the effort to gather that info and lead the op to "the closest possible option"?

additionally, FWIW, its not my job nor is it my  pleasure to "correct" anyone here at TG.  Just tryin to help.....everyone the best I can.

Orion

Did you read my entire response? Even knowing the draw weight at the OP's draw length and if the bow is cut to center or not, the recommended spine can still vary depending on the OP's shooting form.

Actually, the OP did provide the draw weight -- 45#@28 inches and he said he drew 29 1/2 inches.  That makes the draw weight at his draw length about 48-49#.

I did assume his bow was cut to center, but stated it as such.  (I've been shooting sticks for more than 60 years, including a Bear Kodiak Hunter in the distant past, and I think my recollection of it being cut to center is accurate.) But if not, the OP can disregard the recommendation.  Regardless, given that information, I think my recommendation is spot on and certainly more than a shot in the dark.

However, given that you want the OP to arrive at the closest possible option, rather than chastise us for our manner of help, I suggest you contact him to determine the exact draw weight at his draw length and whether his bow is cut to center or not.  Then, use that information to calculate the the spine shaft he needs and let him/us know if a 2018 won't work.  

I/we, too, are just trying to help the best I/we can. I think I understand your frustration, but we live in an imperfect world.

Jerry,
Just to be clear....my initial post was frustration in the overall approach of the group.

I was not attacking your suggestion rather tried to show the disparity between three different "suggestions"

You were the only one to address my post personally and i respect that. Based on the info we have (you used) your suggestion is a good one.  Nobody can factor in "form" but that is managed by tuning with bop/point weight, etc.

I'm done with this...and fully appeciate your sticking to the point.

Bud B.

Jon has shot a few arrows as well.

Jon,

Are you drawing an actual 29.5 or shooting a 29.5 arrow? Regardless, what is your DL? Are you using a Bear rug and sideplate on the Hunter? I have several Hunters and have a few 2018s on hand. I might be able to do some tinkering for you. BUT, if you are not opposed to loading up the front for tune, 2018s will be fine and a good hefty arrow for Bear.
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

Orion

I understand Tony.  Probably got my nose out of joint more than necessary.  

An issue inherent with the internet is that everyone has an opinion, and it's difficult to separate the wheat from the chaff.  Most folks have good intentions, but differing experiences and knowledge, and I don't think we'll ever get around diverging/conflicting opinions/advice.

But, I agree.  We've spent enough time on this one.  I'm leaving for my elk hunt this weekend, and I need to pack.

Take care.

Motivatordan

I like to bare shaft test anything before I commit to fetching. It takes more time to knock tune a bare shaft then if they fly well, fletch them up. It takes me a couple days to get my hunting arrows just right. If I'm stump shooting I am way more liberal with the shafts I use and the manner in which I prepare them.

Jon Stewart

BudB: 29.5 inch arrow off a feather rest. These are my dads old arrows and had thoughts of using them on next weeks bear hunt. I am fletching them up anyway and will shoot them to see how they fly. Using the Bear Kodiak Hunter that he gave me when I got home in 69, his arrows and Black Diamonds that he has killed deer with and will be carrying his Bear 3 piece knife set. Kind of going hunting again with my dad.

Almost sorry I asked the question but thanks to those that gave a positive response.

Bud B.

If you have a set of heavier points, Jon, give'em a try to see what happens. If you need to add weight to the Black Diamonds, you might be able to get heavier screw-in inserts to get things right.

Glad to hear of your upcoming hunt. Your dad will be there every step of the way. I hope you connect.
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

Jon Stewart

I have some heavier inserts. will try both and thanks for the "tip",lol.

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