I just got my package of some Vapor Carbon arrows, that I was hoping to foot with my old aluminum shafts but the 2219 shaft wont fit over the inserts, and the 2213 has a little gap around the edges.  
Am I missing something?

I've been going thru mine and footing them all. One inch at the point and half inch at the nock. I've got mostly Carbon Express and Goldtip Trads, so I don't know about yours. 2216's are working good for me. I have to heat and remove the inserts, then slip the alum. footing onto the shaft, then re-epoxy the insert back in, then epoxy the footing on. It will butt up against the insert. It makes a nice tight fit. I'm sure if you used a footing big enough to go over the insert it would fit sloppy and maybe even affect flight. I don't mind the process since I love to tinker with my gear.

Is is safe to heat remove inserts in carbon arrows?  I only have done that on Aluminum's. what do you use for heat?

Screw in a field point and do not snug tight and than heat over an electric burner or flame, heat slowly and turn the shaft frequently and than pull with staedy pressure with pliers and they will come out. Shawn

Am I missing something? What benefits are derived from footing a carbon shaft?

Carbon shafts are weak on the ends ... They sometimes crack when you (or me alot) hit something like a rock or tree when stump shooting ... Many times ya can hit the wooden base on a 3D target and the nock splits the end of your shaft ...

SOOOooooo ... Many of us "foot" or "sleeve" our carbons ... This adds alot of life to the shaft!

I use 2216s over a one inch arrow wrap for footing Carbon Express Rebels ... No glue needed ... But the 2216 will NOT pass over the brass insert ...

... mike ...

Shawn has it just right on taking the inserts out. Do a search on footing carbons and you'll get a fuller discussion. Anyway, the weak spots on carbon's are at the insert and nock end. I suppose the nock end can split from vibration when you hit something too hard. The insert area can split from force of impact. By reinforcing the ends with alum it will keep splits from starting. I understand footing makes them pretty tough. I learned about it from the guys here on the Gang and have been footing a few at a time.

I just learned about a thread in the how to section that lists inside and outside diameters for aluminum shafts. Handy info if you know the diameter of your carbon...

I just took my Inserts off, and I am hoping to work on it tommrow (SUMMER BREAK!!) I never heard of footing the nock end, but that sounds like a great idea. I think I will go with the 2219 shaft.
Thanks for all the quick responces!!

Footing the nock end helps protect the nock end when the nocks are hit by other arrows while shooting.

To help with pulling the footed carbons from foam targets, before you install the aluminum tubes on the arrow, taper the end of the tube.  Helps quite a bit.

I don't use carbons with the HIT inserts (yet), but have been told that is you install the aluminum footing so that it bears on the point, it supports the point and makes the end much stronger.  Oh, yeah, you have to glue the footing onto the arrow, in that case, can't use a wedge fit.

Anyone ever foot the Arrow Dynamics Trad Lites?  I just shortened one today.  The walls look thick enought that they might not need it.

How long is the piece you add at the tip end?  I noticed 1 inch mentioned above, but wasn't sure if that was the most common.

I read up on all the Footing Carbon posts I've saved and it seems most are doing 1" to 1 1/4" sleeve at the tip end. I am doing 1" since it seems that is probably plenty to keep splits from starting.

Through the years I've made a number of "mushroom tip" carbons by hitting something tougher than the carbon.  Anyone ever use a longer aluminum section (say 3") to splice two sections of carbon together to make an arrow repair?