The other day I was thinking about another way to seal my wood shafts. I love the gasket system but not the way it seals wood.  So what if I fill the tube with Minwax Poly, dip (hold in poly for 15 sec) then pull it through the gasket system.  Nice even layer, let dry and repete.  This should put on a nice even coat of poly.  I know when you dip a shaft, their's some build up of sealer at the end that hangs lowest. Has anyone tried this?  just an idea........Mark

I soak my raw shafts in Helmsman Spar Urethane, &  rich dark poly stain & wood hardener for about 3 days. I then hang them by clothes pins, from the nock end, &  let them hang dry for about a week. As the shafts dry, I suspect that some of the mass will accumulate toward the point end, possibly enhancing point strength, & foc. It definitely adds weight/strength to the shaft. I use a pvc pipe 35 inches long, & I do 3 dozen shafts @ a time.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h88/dm19692153/Arrows.jpg  
This is the latest group I'm working on. Dryed & ready to fletch, w/ fletching tape.

I make a Little Trough out of Aluminum Foil, and dip 'em once in the MinWax Poly Tube, holding them over the tube until they quit dripping, then hang them over the Trough, Letting them get dry. Then I Repeat the Process. And a Coat of Wax when ALL is GOOD & Dry.

Has anyone tried this method?

I haven't tried that particular method, but it sounds interesting.  Please post your results if you try it.

I don't shoot wood but I do spray crest my alunimum arrows and then seal them with Minwax poly. The Minwax is tough stuff and Fletchtite bonds good to it. I have had two fletchings come off and one of those was shot off. The other did not have a good solid bead of glue when applied.

I use a similar method as Lefty but use Watco instead.Won't use anything else.

Make a "gasket" out of a piece of t-shirt...small hole or slit, dip through the shirt into the poly, pull back through...leaves a nice coat, don't have to let it drip off, etc...

The real gaskets will pull it all off unless they are VERY worn out...use the tshirt -- cheap, easy and it'll work fine.

I made my dipper out of pvc components from HD -- pvc tube, a screw on end that will accept a screw and a donut like screw cap (I have no idea what these things are called, but there is no middle).  I'll have to take a pic or something...

Dude,

I have done minwax poly just as you described.  Works good, although you need to thin the poly a little after using it awhile to keep from getting to thick.  I used two coats of poly on ceder shafts. Keep the poly in a PVC tube made for that dipping with a screw lid and it will last a long time (keep the threads clean). I have some ceder arrows that are 25 years old and still sealed and strait.

Thank you, thought it should work.  but you never know,  that's why I asked if anyone has tried this method.......thakns again......DesertDude

Steel wool will smooth out any residue, nicely.

Mark,  I'm thinking the Minwax is awfully thick to dip a shaft in.  I may be wrong, but I bet it will run and be a mess on the bottom end of the shaft.  I also believe you might have issues with adding weight to the shaft inconsistently from one shaft to another.  I use the Minwax Spar Urethane (Helmsman).  First coat thinned and applied with a foam brush as a sealer.  Then quick rub down with fine sandpaper or steel wool.  Second coat right out of the can with foam brush.

Aaron,

Do you  have any issues with glueing points/nocks and the Watco? I had problems with points coming off after using hot melt glue. I have not tried epoxy yet.

God bless,

Jose

Eagle,  my thought is that if I leave the shaft in the tube for about 15 seconds. Now pull it through the gasket, this will leave a small/even amount of poly that shouldn't run.  I will alow the shaft to dry between dips.

You will get too thin a coating to be worth the effort. The gasket method is meant for the lacquer because the lacquer dries really fast in such thin coats. Polyurethane wants to have a thicker coat to be effective. If you just brush it on with a foam sponge brush, you will get a good even coat and all you need is some brushes and some news paper to catch the drippings. It takes a little longer but works well and I think you will be happier with it.

Eagle, what have you found to be the best to thin the Helmsman spar urethane and how much are you thinning it? Thanks, Jim.

I mix my poly with paint thinner 70% poly 30% thinner. I just dip and let it run off to a drip than hang and dry. I steel wool(oooo)in between coats and do 3 dips. I have had shafts stay out under the snow for months at a time and find them in  the sprong and they are fine. Shawn

Poly is  WATER BASED  is it not? Maybe some water, but  PAINT THINNER??  Scares  ME!!!!      

What do you guys use for cresting under Spar Urethane? I have used Testors enamel. Sometimes it runs and sometimes not. I understand now that you are suppose to use a water based acrylic and then dip in Spar..??