The ash shaft of course!!  Somehow tough just doesn't quite cover it when you drive a 740 gr ash shaft straight into a concrete wall    out of a 60# Robertson Falcon at 10 yds.  Even more impressive, it was a 23/64 shaft and I had sanded the taper down to fit an 11/32 point. That arrow bounced straight back 10 feet without any damage whatsoever.

Now don't try this at home kids....Use your buddy's basement!!!!         (Honest Mike...just a little white paint and she'll never notice)          

I've done that, too. My wife just shakes her head. Those ash arrows are tough, aren't they? Besides, that's what concrete patch is for!

Surprising how the old outdated material called wood will hold up. So many think you have to shoot carbon shafts if you want durability. HAH!

I made custom wood arrows for quite a while using ash and birch. They both make excellent arrows...tough and hard hitting. When you think about it they make baseball bats and hockey sticks out of ash.....due to its toughness. The only problem with wood arrows is to get them consistent from one shaft to the next and to find a reliable source of good shafting. A well made wood arrow is as good as any other as long as you put in the time, are willing to spend more money in the long run and have all the tools required to get the consistency right. If I were to shoot wood again it would be white birch because I think it outperforms the ash and is almost as tough.

My barrel tapered ash are very rugged and penetrate extremely well on big game. My supplier and good friend from Silent Pond went out of business...so...when these ash run out, I'll switch to aluminum. Hard to beat small diameter, heavy ash for penetration though.

Joe you can get Raptor to taper ash any way you like.

Thanks Bjorn....I've give them shout.

I have flattened field points because of ash shafts. I have also put a dent int he sissy bar on my daughters bike because of a bad shoot. Got to love that ash.

Allegheny Mountain Arrow Woods has excellent Ash shafts as well as Hickory, Laminated Birch, Purple Heart, and sometimes if you are lucky he occasionally has Maple and Yellow Birch and Ipe.  I have gotten over 50 dozen shafts from him in the last 2 years and they have all been excellent.  I like the Yellow Birch the best.  Bill is a wonderful guy to work with.  His web site is  www.arrowwoods.com.   Joseph

I have to second Allegheny Mountain. I've only bought 5-6 dozen ash  from them over the last few years . But, I always  get great arrow shafts.

Did you have the proper tag for that wall? I've found that they're not too tough to stalk, but hard to bring down.   :rolleyes:  

I used to use Silent Pond tapered ash for some arrows I made in the past. They were a good arrow,heavy and tough, but took a little more care in the straightening department.

I'm ashamed to admit it, Ray, but that wasn't a fair chase hunt. The wall was anchored to the ground. In my defense, however, there was no bait used.

Hey Scatter...

Mine was fair chase.  Not only did that wall blend in perfectly with its surrounding environment, it was also hiding behind a foam target making for a much more difficult shot!!  

Most wood arrows will stand up to a direct hit on concrete, but only if the arrow is 90 degrees on impact. Cedar and spruces will jamb up some in the point but not break most of the time if the grain is straight. They can shatter full length a little more often than ash or birch.

Ash is great for weight and durability, but if you don't need the weight, softwood will do the job.

Molson, my hat is off to you, sir! An added benefit is that the trophy wall is already there, and there's no taxidermy fees.

LOL I shot a cynder block once only it was with a 2317 tipped with a 160gr snuffer outta an 80# bow...both the BH and the arrow survived with the BH just needing the tip touched up but still very much intact and useable.The concrete lost a good size chunk and no it wasn,t on purpose