I have used Bohning Fletch Lac on my wood shafts for quite awhile. It doesn't hold up to well on the hay bales. The part that penetrates the bales gets "bale burn" and the particles of hay stick to the shafts.
I have considered trying Bohning Super Coat, gasket laquer, Dalys Pro Fin (sold at Whispering Wind Arrows), etc. I would like to hear from any Tradgangers that have used these products and the pro's and con's of each.
And while I am on the subject of arrow finish, what are the best cresting paints you have used?Thanks, Jim Harris.

Epoxy works best for me.  I'm about to leave for the weekend, but if you want the recipie just pm me and I'll send it when I get back.

Testors, odds-n-ends, etc. paints work just fine with this finish.  I use spray paint for the cap.

Chad

The Super Coat is a lot better for target burn than the Clear. I use a coat of Clear and then put a coat of Super Coat over it. I like the Bohning creasting paints. Hap

Chad and Hap, thanks for the info. I sent you a pm Chad for your epoxy recipe. Jim.

Depends on what you are shooting and what you are looking for.  If you are shooting cedar or pine and want quick any easy gasket lacquer will work.  If you are shooting a hardwood shaft then you need a penetrating finish and I would highly recomend Daly's Pro Fin.  If you want the absolutely most durable finsh then get some Moisture Cured Polyurethane.  It is amazing stuff but you won't be able to dip shafts inside unless you have a professional grade ventilation system.  Joseph

On the recommendation of Steve H, I started using Helmsman Spar Urethane with a gasket system.  I have been very happy with it.  If it works for a guy that lives and hunts around Juneau, it should work for about anyone.

Dave

Raptor Dip works real well for bales, and fur too! LOL

I made custom arrows for a number of years. I found the best finish to be good old Minwax high gloss quick drying poly. Thinned about 1 to 4 with thinner it gives a high gloss, extremely durable finish that pulls from all types of targets without problems, can be fletched with duco and is about as water proof as any other. When you consider cost, availability and final product it fit the bill as "best" for my needs.

Thanks guys, this is great. Keep those finish idea's coming.... Jim

If you want to soak rather than dip, try Watco oil.  I usually soak mine in Watco oil for about a week, inside a piece of PVC pipe.  The oil permeates the entire shaft, does not affect the spine and adds from 50-70 grains to 11/32 cedars.  As they dry, you do need to wipe them down daily for about a week because they do bleed as they dry.  Takes another week or two beyond that to get really dry.  Yields a smooth finish that pulls out of targets nicely.  Haven't had them in the rain for days on end, but certainly have gotten them wet for a day or two at a time, and haven't had any problem with water penetrating the wood.

I use satin spar varnish with excellent results on cedar, ash, birch, and spruce arrows. After the final coat (two is ample, but I often use 3 coats) I use steel wool to flatten the finish. I have to admit that in part I use varnish because I like varnishing. But, if you shoot 3-D targets a lot it too will suffer from target burn, although not nearly to the same extent as gasket lacquer.

BTW, my full finishing regimen is to stain the shafts, then taper the arrow (always with hardwoods, sometimes with softwoods) so I get a two tone effect and flight characteristics I prefer, and finish with varnish.

I use water base poly, either dip and drip or use the gasket system.Works good. Also if you will rub a bar of soap on the front of your arrows it will help the bale burn and will make pulling arrows from 3d's easier,(have to do it pretty often)My 2 cents  :D    :D    :D

I have done gasket lacquer and MinWax lacquer.

Both came out great.  The Bohning cresting paints (lacquer) slightly reacted with the MinWax.

I love the results of spar urethane too. It is meant for exterior use so you know it will hold up too. I use the gasket system,like Dave Pagel, and love how even the finish is.

I use the Daly's Pro Fin. Very durable, very water resistant, and it goes over Bohning paints without any trouble. DONT try to put Bohning over Pro Fin, unless you are looking for a crinkle finish.

Gasket Laquer works well for "disposable" arrows. Quick, easy, pulls from targets well, but it doesnt hold up well to the elements.

A couple years ago, I lost 2 arrows at a shoot when there was snow on the ground. Lost em both at the same target (dont ask). One had GL, the other pro Fin. Well, I found them when the snow melted, the GL'rd one was warped (from moisture I presume) and the finish cracking. The Pro Fin one was in great shape with no ill effects to the finish. Pretty much sold me on the PF right then and there.

BP

Minwax polyurethane gloss, only don't thin it. You don't need to. Certain types of thinner will destroy the polyurethane.

I had no idea there were so many different finishes being used on wood shafts. Anyone else have another finish for wood shafts... lets hear it!!! Thanks guys, Jim.

Cheapest, slickest, fastest to apply finish for wood arrows is paraffin.

this is what I'm using lately

I use the gasket system with Minwas high gloss poly, but have used the spar urethene also.  I like the durability of the urethene over other gasket finishes that would sometimes flake off the shaft.  The front 3/4 of the arrow is steel wooled to make it very smooth and very silent when drawn over a leather arrow rest on a still frosty morning.

It really matter where you live and where you shoot  or hunt what you can get by with.  Those water-based polys and gasket laquer might make it by for a target shootier/fair weather hunter and maybe some of you in the desert but it WILL fail where I live and hunt.  I require arrows that might have moisture on them for up to two weeks at a time.  As Dave Pagel said the Helmsman Spar Urethane and also Spar varnich will make the grade.  I suspect that the Profin would work here also.  I suggest always using gloss as it is pure finish and stronger.  Either steel wool your last coat or use satin on the last coat only.