At 15 yards, I hit the target right where I aim.  At 20, I hit 6-8 inches low.  I'd like to hold over less. 

The bow I shoot is labeled 62# @ 26 inches, but when I test it at my girlish 25.5 inch draw length it comes in about 55#. 

My arrow is 27 inches, broadhead weighs 300 grains, with (2) 75 grain inserts for a total arrow weight of 755 grains. This makes FOC about 31% and I'm using 4 inch feathers.  Huge set up, but I have alaska and africa on the radar. 

I am killing animals, and had a fun season so far.   However, I just shot another spike, arrow stuck out about 4 inches opposite shoulder, but not a pass through, distance was 8 yards.  Recovered fine,  I'm just not happy with my set up not ripping through a little Texas white tail, when I'm wanting it to kill a Bull Moose.  I've killed 7 pigs, zero full pass throughs, but I am killing them.  I'm just concerned about the jump in animal size without getting pass throughs on these smaller game. 

Arrows are tuned well, my head's are sharp, is this the best I can do?  What else might you suggest I do?  Should I experiment with different arrows or a different bow?  Is this just how trad bow hunting is and the next five deer I shoot might be full pass throughs?

Im not sure Ive ever worried about getting pass throughs, as long as Im getting into the vitals. Im shooting 60lb @28 and have a 29 inch draw. id say I get a pass through about one in 5 animals shot. Mostly fallow and pigs. Goats more often but many of them are quite small. A reasonable size pig will generally stop my arrow unless its gone through exactly broadside and missed anything heavy.

Well, I'm just an old woodchucker...
I shoot wooden arrows, tipped with old green Bear Razorhheads. I couldn't tell you what they weigh??

Idk? MAYBE you might want to try a lighter arrow?? The "standard" is about 10grs per pound...
That would be about 550grs for a 55# bow, 755grs just seems kinda heavy for your 55# bow???

I'm not a "speed" advocate by any means, but a lighter arrow would certainly help your trajectory.

Just one old fart's opinion...

Quote from: woodchucker on December 28, 2021, 01:01:18 PM
Well, I'm just an old woodchucker...
I shoot wooden arrows, tipped with old green Bear Razorhheads. I couldn't tell you what they weigh??

Idk? MAYBE you might want to try a lighter arrow?? The "standard" is about 10grs per pound...
That would be about 550grs for a 55# bow, 755grs just seems kinda heavy for your 55# bow???

I'm not a "speed" advocate by any means, but a lighter arrow would certainly help your trajectory.

Just one old fart's opinion...

I need Old Fart's opinions.  Thanks!  I just need to do more experiments with arrows.

Try paper tuning at close distances to see if at that short 8 yards your arrow was "straight on".

 Kinetic energy assuming your shooting 190 feet per second is about 62 foot pounds .  Lighter arrow less kinetic energy but faster speeds . Looks like your set up good for large game ,I would say even Big Game in the right spot . That is a real heavy 27 inch arrow. Alot of FOC . Why no pass through who knows maybe hit two ribs or front leg. But sounds like you got animals and that's all that matters. You are doing everything right . As long as arrow tuned right . Again 31 is a lot of FOC . 10 to 15 percent is all you need .20 is high .
Kinetic Energy Recommendations for Bowhunting
Small Game   25 ft.lbs.
Medium Game (Deer, Antelope)   25-41 ft.lbs.
Large Game (Elk, Black Bear, Boar)   42-65 ft.lbs.
Big Game (Cape Buffalo, Grizzly Bear)   65 ft.lbs.

Im old, been howhunting deer for prolly 65 yrs and I think Ive only had one clean pass through and it was a bad shot. 50# bows mostly. Maybe its my tuning or lack there of, but I just cant help but wonder why I read and hear of so many.

I'm running a 27.5" draw on a 50lb@28 and 55lb@28 bows.  I normally have two holes.  As often as not the arrow is on the ground just past where I shot the animal or within the first ten yards.  And that's on boars inbthe 200lb class.

Quote from: BAK on December 28, 2021, 03:50:43 PM
Try paper tuning at close distances to see if at that short 8 yards your arrow was "straight on".

I'll tell ya I was big on paper tuning but I've been using a go pro or other camera to record the shot. You can break the arrow flight down frame by frame and it's amazing what you see. Even when arrows seem good the may be able to improve. I agree with the straight on theory for sure. Just another way possibly the op could watch his flight plus to be honest, it's easier

Maybe the animals that you're shooting get "pushed" by the arrow????  I've had a number of pass through shots on big Missouri whitetails,  but I cannot  remember even one pass through on squirrels???  Maybe a bigger, heavier animal is what you need to get a pass through?

Just my warped mind thinking out loud.

Good luck,  shoot straight and God bless,
Rodd

Quote from: Bowguy67 on December 28, 2021, 05:57:23 PM

Quote from: BAK on December 28, 2021, 03:50:43 PM
Try paper tuning at close distances to see if at that short 8 yards your arrow was "straight on".

I'll tell ya I was big on paper tuning but I've been using a go pro or other camera to record the shot. You can break the arrow flight down frame by frame and it's amazing what you see. Even when arrows seem good the may be able to improve. I agree with the straight on theory for sure. Just another way possibly the op could watch his flight plus to be honest, it's easier

Camera behind you or to the side or both?

Bowguy, I do this with an iphone in slow motion mode.

Quote from: Matagorda on December 28, 2021, 07:43:37 PM

Quote from: Bowguy67 on December 28, 2021, 05:57:23 PM

Quote from: BAK on December 28, 2021, 03:50:43 PM
Try paper tuning at close distances to see if at that short 8 yards your arrow was "straight on".

I'll tell ya I was big on paper tuning but I've been using a go pro or other camera to record the shot. You can break the arrow flight down frame by frame and it's amazing what you see. Even when arrows seem good the may be able to improve. I agree with the straight on theory for sure. Just another way possibly the op could watch his flight plus to be honest, it's easier

Camera behind you or to the side or both?

For nock height of use side to side but I think it's most beneficial when used directly when mounted on my head or from the back. You really need to see exactly what arrow does. I believe I have a video still of a feathered shaft I filmed just to show a bud what I was looking for/at. If I do I'll post a pic or two

Quote from: Ronnie Newell on December 28, 2021, 07:58:14 PM
Bowguy, I do this with an iphone in slow motion mode.

Ronnie I've never done it with a phone. How would you go about that?

Some pics of an arrow overcompensating. Starts off one way than heads the next. Imagine if you hit a deer with this arrow at this range you would be hitting with some side pressure. Wasted energy. Not the arrow for this bow, just an example

Overcompensation. Same shot. When using the camera you can zoom in it's not transferring perfect here

 Bowguy, I get the wife to stand behind and over me and video the shot then replay it in slow motion.

Gotcha I saw Clay Hayes do that on a video w his wife. My gf would aggravate me trying to help ugh. Easier for me the way I do it. But that's a good idea

Old fart here
     I get pass throughs on probably 80% of deer I shoot and at least a exit on about everything else . I use a old school set up and couldn't tell you what my FOC is. I shoot about 56 lbs at my 27" draw, shoot a 600-625 gr arrow with 175-200 gr broadhead on a Easton xx75 2020 aluminum. Broadheads are either 3 blade 200 gr VPA or zwickey Deltas . I think arrow flight is critical in penetration which I use bareshafting and 5" fletching to obtain,  as is a reasonable arrow weight and a good COC head

Look into Ashby's studies. Real fact based information on how to get the most penetration for your set up. Good for you shooting 55# a lot of grown men can't handle that weight lol.