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Fletching failures

Started by Stealth Man, November 28, 2021, 08:37:42 PM

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Stealth Man

Trying to fletch true flight feathers to a carbon shaft using Bohning fletch-tite and a bearpaw jig.  Had good initial success with this set up. Now I just seem to be pulling fletching off the shaft when I remove the jig. Tried cleaning the jig but it does have residual glue that is hard to remove with the measurement lines.  Any helpful hints?

GCook

The Bohning Platinum works best for carbon shafts.
I can afford to shoot most any bow I like.  And I like Primal Tech bows.

McDave

The secret is to get the glue on the quill without putting so much on that it runs off on the fletching jig or the feather clamp, while at the same time not leaving any gaps in the glue line or the quill will raise up later on.  It takes a while to figure it out, but it's something we've all had to do.  As far as the glue that has accumulated on the fletching jig up to now, just scrape it off the best you can with a dull knife or something.
TGMM Family of the Bow

Technology....the knack of arranging the world so that we don't have to experience it.

katman

Agree with above and will add clean shaft with denatured alcohol or acetone, not rubbing alcohol.
shoot straight shoot often

jr1959

I started using wraps on carbons which seemed to work much better. I also recently switched to fletching tape. After a few failed attempts at tape I really prefer tape now and add a drop of fletch tite front and back of quill. 
'59 Kodiak 45# Gainesville 60" LH
Jim Hoker Woodspirit Bows 60#, 55#, 48#
Fox Royal Crown 62" 44#
Fox Longbow 66" 40#

LookMomNoSights

When I used to shoot a lot of aluminum arrows, I would dip (usually in clear) to give the glue a great surface to adhere to.  This also works with carbon as well.   Dipping in clear, you don't even have to be that fussy.  You can clear dip just past where your fletching will sit,  let it dry,  then glue away.  For the past 10 years at least now,  I have use nothing but Platinum and I have had zero issues or complaints.  Regardless of shaft material,  prior cleaning with acetone where you are going to dip / glue is a smart idea.

Baylee

Clean the shaft with denatured alcohol. Use a Qtip dipped in denatured alcohol to wipe the glueing surface of the feather, drys in seconds. Clean off old glue from clamps with acetone. Never, ever ,even once had a feather come loose with flechtite platinum and carbon or aluminum shafts. I shoot only wood now so duco's the answer for that.

DannyBows

I wipe a very thin film of vaseline on the clamp every few feathers. Helps to keep extra glue from sticking to the quill.
"Always feel the wind, and walk just like the leaves".  ("LongBow Country"--Chad Slagle, "High, Wild, and Free").

trad_bowhunter1965

I have been fletching Carbon, Aluminum and wood arrows for over 30 years almost all glues work depending on how you prep your shaft for aluminum I like acetone wipe it down before I fletch and on Carbon I use scotch brite pad rough where I am going to put my fletching and wipe it with acetone. I only use saunders npv glue now what I like about it is never gets brittle and it hold for ever and like Dave said wipe off you excess glue you can do that with a paper towel.
" I am driven by those thing that rouse my traditional sense of archery and Bowhunting" G Fred Asbell

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M60gunner

I haven't fletched bare shafts in many years for myself. I use wraps or paint the cap. I learned the hard way carbons can have a film on them to help one pull arrows easier. Unfortunately it screws up efforts to dip, paint doesn't adhere as well. So out comes the steel wool and Acetone. I use either the Bohning glue or NPV glue with no issues.
  As for glue sticking to clamps. I have used silicone tape on the clamp edges to solve this problem. What also helped was buying a bottle for the glue with a needle point.

Stringwacker

#10
I like NPV glue after prepping the shaft with Acetone. I keep the feathers from sticking on the clamp by using a light swipe of string wax on the leading edge of the clamps
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Tom1958

I use tape and I've not had any failires. I stump shoot a lot and the tape holds up well. I do put a small dab of platinum on front and rear.
Wraps work well too but if you are making an efoc arrow, keep the nock end as light as possible. Wraps add almost 10 hrains to the wrong end of the arrow.
But what I like best about tape is if I want to strip the shaft and change fleathers. Tape allows refletching carbons so much easier. Tapes is instant, too. Dont need to wait hours to shoot them like you do with glue.

Trenton G.

I use Loktite super gel and it works fantastic. I've never had a feather pull off. The feather might get shredded but the quill is on the shaft to stay. I just wipe the shaft with some denatured alcohol to clean and then fletch them up.

Stealth Man

I very much appreciate all the knowledge and advice.  I'm sure things will get easier as I incorporate these tips

tracker12

Wrap and Dave Smith Industries super glue. I also use the enhancer spray.  I break arrows before my fletch comes off.
T ZZZZ

Walt Francis

Lining your fletching jigs with blue painters tape green frog tape will keep the glue from sticking to your clamps.
The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

Walt Francis

Regular Member of the Professional Bowhunters Society

Walt Francis

My question:

What glue to use with Pro Fin marine finish?

I Haven't found one that works very well with ProFin.
The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

Walt Francis

Regular Member of the Professional Bowhunters Society

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