Staining birds eye for veneers?

Started by oldandslow, October 30, 2021, 03:34:31 PM

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Mad Max

Quote from: Richard Korte on November 14, 2021, 09:36:18 AM
I've stained a lot of veneers using Transtint Dyes dissolved in alcohol, especially curly and quilted Maple. If you try to stain a thin veneer, it will curl or warp as it dries. I mill the veneers I plan to dye fairly thick, about 1/8" or so. I splice them together with superglue and run them through my drum sander using fine sandpaper, 180 or 220 grit, sanding only the side I plan to dye. After dyeing, I allow them to dry thoroughly, then run them through the sander, using 60 grit on the un-dyed surface, to take them down to my desired thickness. I use a 6' long by 4" wide piece of vertical grained Bamboo flooring as my sled, and I applied self stick drywall sanding sheets to the sled to prevent the lams from sliding while running them though the drum sander. I always dye and mill my veneers first in the building process. That tells my how thick my Bamboo cores should be to attain my desired stack. Works fo me!      Richard

I use 2 layers of paper towel on both sides of the veneers and a heavy flat riser wood on top of them over night and redo the paper towels and do the same again the next morning .
These were totally soaked with water base and worked fine. :thumbsup:

I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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oldandslow

Quote from: Mad Max on November 14, 2021, 05:46:36 PM
Quote from: Richard Korte on November 14, 2021, 09:36:18 AM
I've stained a lot of veneers using Transtint Dyes dissolved in alcohol, especially curly and quilted Maple. If you try to stain a thin veneer, it will curl or warp as it dries. I mill the veneers I plan to dye fairly thick, about 1/8" or so. I splice them together with superglue and run them through my drum sander using fine sandpaper, 180 or 220 grit, sanding only the side I plan to dye. After dyeing, I allow them to dry thoroughly, then run them through the sander, using 60 grit on the un-dyed surface, to take them down to my desired thickness. I use a 6' long by 4" wide piece of vertical grained Bamboo flooring as my sled, and I applied self stick drywall sanding sheets to the sled to prevent the lams from sliding while running them though the drum sander. I always dye and mill my veneers first in the building process. That tells my how thick my Bamboo cores should be to attain my desired stack. Works fo me!      Richard

I use 2 layers of paper towel on both sides of the veneers and a heavy flat riser wood on top of them over night and redo the paper towels and do the same again the next morning .
These were totally soaked with water base and worked fine. :thumbsup:


Oh that looks nice!
Why did you hold out so long? :o

Mad Max

I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

oldandslow

Oh yes. Thats so nice.
I have some of those transtint dyes.
Will have to give it some time to work out the colors

Appalachian Hillbilly

Mad Max, is there glass on that bow?

I have some curly maple that I want to use some Transtint on but was worried about it interfering with the epoxy.

Mad Max

#25
Yes glass bow
Aniline dye water base
1 oz is all you will ever need
1 oz to 1  quart of water
I go with 1/4 cup of boiling water to 27 grains of dye
convert 1 oz to grains (I use a reload scale for reloading bullets to measure grains)
1 oz is 437 grains divided by 16 is 27 grains, 1 quart is 4 cups divided by 16 is 1/4 cup
I use 2 layers of paper towel on both sides of the veneers and a heavy flat riser wood on top of them over night and redo the paper towels and do the same again the next morning until dry .
These were totally soaked with water base and worked fine.
This is were I get mine, I want to try grey on birdseye maple
https://woodworker.com/water-soluble-lt-gold-oak-aniline-dye-mssu-843-924.asp

I keep a dehumidifier in my bow shop running at 40% :thumbsup:
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

Flem

Love seeing pics of that bow :thumbsup: That is a Tour de Force of wood dyeing :notworthy:

Mad Max

#27
How I did the starburst
I laid out vertical lines on a piece of paper and tape my veneers over it.
I used Orange Yellow and Brown, mixing 2 of the colors on the wood with a rag ( fold a rag into a ball, wrap it with another rag and tie it off with a rubber band ----->) I had about 6 of these tied off for mixing

It took a while to mix them


Brown orange yellow orange brown orange yellow orange brown orange yellow orange brown and so on
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

Richard Korte

Here's a bow I made using Big Leaf quilted Maple veneers dyed with Transtint green dissolved in isopropyl alcohol. Transtint is a liquid, so no measuring is required...you just add the dye, stir, and dab some on a piece of scrap wood just like your veneers. (Wear gloves!) You can mix in different colors to get any effect you want. I did nothing special with these veneers. It's just 2-3 coats of plain green dye. The grain in the Maple does the rest.
Always do what's right, even when no one is looking.

oldandslow

Awesome look to that green. This is what I was hoping to get...

Mad Max

I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

Appalachian Hillbilly

Those are awesome! Mike Treadway showed me limbs with green Trans Tint on Black Limba veneers yesterday.  Apparently after drying it does not effect the epoxy.

Now if I can figure out how to dye maple in risers  that have other woods laminated with it.

Flem

That green is wild looking :thumbsup:
Looks 3-D in the pictures

Roy from Pa


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