I love the look of the broken accent stripes sandwiched between 2 thin layers of contrasting color and then put in the risers.
I know you basically make a laminate stack for the middle layer and then slice it and grind it to thickness. Are the 3 layers then glued together before going into the riser? Or are they glued into the riser layup as 3 separate layers.

Just curious if they are glued together first, if the thin layer becomes to stiff to make curves in a riser layup.

I glue mine up when I glue the riser and stripes together. Do a dryer run use a toothpick to hold in position. Then take back apart add glue toothpick clamp

These blocks are 2 x  2 x 3/4 and 3/16 thick, glue them together.

Now cut them in to thin strips and sand to thickness.
This is a different block but can see how it's done

Now 2 more pieces to make a sandwich

I cut and sand for the stripe and epoxy 2 different kinds of wood together

after the epoxy cures I do the same thing again

The stripes in this picture are from the blocks in the first picture

Some of mine. JF

really nice jeff

Thank you Max

Guys  those are awesome! Unbelievable work. I can not wait to get my shop setup. I went wood shopping yesterday and this is going to become an addiction!

I was worried that the 3 piece small stack might be to stiff to make curve in the riser.

Feel free to post up more pics of y'alls gorgeous work!.

Nice Demo, Mark...

  Great looking stuff Jeff... 

Thanks guy's

WoW some very special inlays.

I was worried that the 3 piece small stack might be to stiff to make curve in the riser.

When I made my first mosaic, I found that it was too stiff to bend into the curve. What I did wrong was I glued the two solid pieces that sandwich the colored core section on. When I glued up a bow with curved accents, I layed up all the solid pieces and the colored part into the riser at the same time.
[attachment=1]
If you don't glue the outer accent lams, you will find that the core accent bends pretty easily.
I hope this helps. I'm not great at explaining things sometimes.
Dave.

Guys that is really cool work on that.  Jeff that mosaic pattern is really neat.  I am hoping to start building my 2nd bow after Christmas.. that is if Christmas turns out alright     Anyway, I think that would be something really cool to try.  Thanks for sharing those pics.

There are a few different patterns you can get from these pieces. Move them around until you get what you want. Then clamp and drill, pin, with a toothpick and then glue up. JF

Wow.  Got some inspiration up in here!

I struggle with these as well.  I'm snapping my compound curve accents about 30% of the time.  However I haven't tried that glueing up trick Wood Carver 2 is talking about.  So if I understand it correctly... You glue the patterned lam between the solid lams and clamp that in the riser but you don't put glue on the outside of the solid lams right?  Then after that drys you'll glue the outside of the solid lams and thus the sandwich into the riser?  I feel like I'm not understanding this correctly but perhaps I am and I just need to trust the process.

Max - Thanks for the write-up.  I've learned grain direction is rather key in this part. Have you found that to be the case or does it vary depending on wood type and how thick you're grinding to? I think it would be nice to not always have end grain but maybe that's a pipe-dream.

Quote from: Jeff Freeman on November 01, 2021, 06:53:48 PM
There are a few different patterns you can get from these pieces. Move them around until you get what you want. Then clamp and drill, pin, with a toothpick and then glue up. JF

You sir have some really cool patterns! I'm curious about this toothpick trick you're referring to.  Do you position the lams then drill through them into the riser and then put a toothpick through?  That sounds like it would work for interior lams but what about outside accents where having a little drill hole is not super cool?

Question for the squad - What thickness do you grind your patterned lams to when using it in a curve/flare accent? I'm generally around  .02" - 0.06"

You got it right. I drill for the tooth pic after I get positioned. Yes the toothpick gets cut off or it's will be hidden when gluing up the rest of the bow.

What type of glue do you use for this. Wood glue or smooth on.

Katalyst, I glue the patterned lam and the accent strips and the riser halves at the same time. The patterned lam is very flexible on it's own but it doesn't bend if you glue the accents on.
Dave.

I use smooth on, always. I don't bake it. I only bake when I glue the complete bow assembly. JF

Max - Thanks for the write-up.  I've learned grain direction is rather key in this part. Have you found that to be the case or does it vary depending on wood type and how thick you're grinding to? I think it would be nice to not always have end grain but maybe that's a pipe-dream.

.050 is the thickest I go with.
One time I had to thickness sand end grain to .050 on hard rock maple , it was a pain and wanted to burn.
None of mine broke except at the glue joint but I have not  made enough of them to no