Glue a lam on the back and reshape the fades

There ya go..

Quote from: Shredd on May 03, 2021, 10:46:53 AM
  Great looking bows guys...  Cruiser... Looks like an issue with grain direction...  Better now than later...

It's Spectraply.

Max, I thought about that and it's still an option.   I have been working on another section to become a lam through style and then fashion the second piece from the Spectraply to go over the face lams.

I'm getting weathered out so too much time to think about this. 

Quote from: Walt Francis on May 02, 2021, 10:16:30 PM
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What taper do you use on the butt splices?


Thanks,
Mark

If you are talking scarf joints not that flat. Maybe 15 degrees.

Looks like it would be a very strong joint
.100 to .150 per inch

I really don't know what the taper is.  Brent had one for splicing lams for his Sheepeaters, I copied it, made mine around 2007/8.  The joints are a lot stronger then the 30* ones I used before and often you can't tell they are there.

How I made the butt splice sled.  I used double sided tape to hold a 1/2"-3/4" ( +/-) piece of riser wood that was laying around my shop to a piece of maple that was left over from making my lam and taper sleds.  Ran it through the cabinet saw both top and bottom to cut all the way through.  Then ran it through my home made drum sander with the piece of wood still attached.  Took a total of 5 minutes to make.

Quote from: Walt Francis on May 05, 2021, 11:15:14 PM
I really don't know what the taper is.  Brent had one for splicing lams for his Sheepeaters, I copied it, made mine around 2007/8.  The joints are a lot stronger then the 30* ones I used before and often you can't tell they are there.

How I made the butt splice sled.  I used double sided tape to hold a 1/2"-3/4" ( +/-) piece of riser wood that was laying around my shop to a piece of maple that was left over from making my lam and taper sleds.  Ran it through the cabinet saw both top and bottom to cut all the way through.  Then ran it through my home made drum sander with the piece of wood still attached.  Took a total of 5 minutes to make.

My brain isn't grasping that.  Any pictures?

Alright I'm officially working now.  Squared up all my riser blocks this morning but ran out of time before work.  Riser block cut and glue tomorrow!  I'll get some pictures up when I get home tonight.

 

I don't think I'm going to be able to use the block of zebra unfortunately.  It ended up pretty skinny once it was all cleaned up.  Going to have to do some color coordinating tonight!

Ibeam it

I would, but it's well under 2" in both directions.

Sorry for the delay, here are the pictures promised. The zebra is a little thicker than I thought still, about 1 13/16" both directions. I'm leaning towards the zebra/bocote or something with the bubinga. I also have core tuff riser accent strips in red and black to stiffen and dress up the I beam a little. Thoughts?

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Went with this. Roy a little help on the rotation please? 

[attachment=1,msg2962320]

Done...

Looks sharp..

Thank you Sir!  I got it bonded and cured in the oven tonight.  Pulled it out to find the bubinga twisted all to crap.  Going to take it to the machines in the morning and see if it's salvageable, but my guess is it'll be a donation to my pen turning buddy.  Looks like I will get a chance to use that zebra after all lol!

Always thought bubinga was pretty stable if it's dry.

I have some large Bubinga planks that have been in my heated shop for 25 years. Some of them when cut into thinner pieces bends and twists. Seems to be a lot of tension in them that you do not see until cut in smaller pieces.

Yes there was a lot of tension in the block, but oddly not throughout the entire thing.  One slice came off fine, the next nearly bound the table saw.  I had to wedge it to keep from pinching the blade.  I figured the other two would hold it straight during the cure but I was wrong.  No biggie, I have plenty of alternatives and my friend can use it to make about 4,000 pens