It's only 14# draw. Roy don't need much good fiber cept in the morning cocktail

I am doing great gentlemen. Hope all of you have been doing well.

The back of the boo hasn't been touched yet. Nodes and rind are in tack.

The middle core in first picture is hard maple, says so in first post Flemmy boy:)

Flem I swear ya need glasses:)

Gooberson it's 15#..

Good to see ya Kelly.

Got her out of the form yesterday.

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Got horn tip overlays glued on, I use ea40 for that.

I first cut very close to the side of the boo up about 2 inches from the tip to get the excess wood removed on the sides.

I lay the overlay on the tip then trace the edge, cut it close to the line, then finish with a rasp and block of sandpaper. Ya need to be careful doing this.

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Glued on, wrapped with plastic wrap and secured with rubber bands.

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I lay the riser block on it's side, lay the bow on it  with the center line of the riser aligned to a mark on the bow that is 3/4" below the bows center, and trace out the arc of the bow onto the riser block.

Cut close to the line and then get to the line with the edge sander.

You want a perfect match with this, so you keep checking the fit and sand as needed.

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I'm adding a 3/16th" lam of purple heart between the bow and riser to add a little color.

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I glue the riser on with unibond800 so the glue lines match the rest of the bow.

I pad the back of the boo again to prevent clamp damage.

I alternate the 5 clamps and really crank these down tight.

I place the end clamps at the very end of the riser to make sure there are no gaps between riser and belly of bow.

You need to align the riser center line to the 3/4" inch line below bows center.

After it's clamped down tight, I wipe the excess glue from the belly of the bow at the end of the riser, that's easier than sanding the hard glue off the belly later on.

It goes back in the drying box for 24 hours at 90 degrees.

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Ya happy Bvass?

I lent my camera to ole KennyM and took forever for him to send it back...

And the new batteries were missing and it had gwass dust all over it.

Gwass dust makes me itchy...

Dats why I make wood bows...

 

That looks a lot like a glass bow process.   

And I bet you were itchy before you ever heard of glass or gwass , maybe it's gass that makes ya itchy ...

Quote from: Roy from Pa on December 16, 2020, 04:38:00 AM


The middle core in first picture is hard maple, says so in first post Flemmy boy:)

Flemmy boy
I would like to see a list of the nicknames you have for our nicknames
Nice work Roy Boy

Quote from: kennym on December 16, 2020, 08:06:33 AM
That looks a lot like a glass bow process.   

maybe it's gass that makes ya itchy ...

Thanks Kenny now I have coffee all over my screen.

You can rest assured I have pet names for most of you guys
Seems the dam broke on my stream of consciousness. My thoughts are running away together like a swirling vortex of brain doo doo.
I was just thinking out loud and should have typed; Us glass bow makers sure waste a lot of good Bamboo fibers when we mill it into thin laminations.

Roy, rubber bands are the best tip overlay clamps I've ever used. Good, positive clamping no matter what shape or design.

Yes they are, Pat.

and thanks for the great build along. 

 

Roy, if you still have some of that dark compressed Beech I sent, it is good for tip reinforcements.
Build along goes fine.

I do have some thanks Bue

Lookin good roy

Quote from: Roy from Pa on December 16, 2020, 06:55:14 AM
Ya happy Bvass?

I lent my camera to ole KennyM and took forever for him to send it back...

And the new batteries were missing and it had gwass dust all over it.

Gwass dust makes me itchy...

Dats why I make wood bows...

 

You outa know, I ain't never "happy". lol

But I am pleased to see ya moving things along.
Looking putty darn good........especially for a grass bow.