Hello all,

I've been away for a year, nice to see the same old crew still at it!

I'm attempting to build my first bow. I was given a red oak plank from my neighbor and I'm wondering if the grain is useable.

Also, I laid out the handle 2 1/4" above and below center. I shoot split finger, so should I move the handle layout to compensate for tiller?

PICS:

 

 

 

Its laid out for a 68" bow.... If that helps.

Negative on the grain. It runs across the back at dangerous angles. Take a look at your second pic and look at how the grain runs across the back of the outline you drew.

It will definately break. I don't think I would even attempt to back it because the angle that the grain runs is just too severe.

You want the grain lines to run parallel to the outline that you drew, not across it. Don't give up. Find a good piece and start again.

Pretty much figured that. I got it for free, so I thought I might risk it.
Thanks

It you got it for free just try it. But I would back it and wear a helmet. LOL

Could anyone post a pic of a good grain pattern? Thanks.

I don't have any pics of a good grain pattern, but if you look at the second pic in cadillac's post you'll get a good idea.

See how the grain lines run ACROSS the back of his outline at an angle?? Now imagine those lines running straight and parralell with his outline, from tip to tip. That's what good grain would look like on a bow making board.

Cadillac,
One more thing. It looks like your stave is one inch thick and by your outline it looks like you are planning on narrow stiff handle. That means you are going to have to glue on another piece to make it thick enough. Glue on risers can be done, but they are notorious for popping off. I've had it happen to me more than once, and I only pulled it off successfully twice. I don't mess with them anymore if I'm using one inch thick wood.

I would make a bend in the handle bow, where the width of the handle matches the width of the limbs. These are quicker to make, involve less work, and are generally easier for a beginner to make. You can also get hunting weight bows from them. Mark off the center 4 inches of the bow outline and just leave it alone when tillering. But I would pick another board. Good luck.

Austin

As a matter of fact, I was going to glue on a handle. I like a good meaty handle. That plank will be used for roughout practice, I think.

The articles I've read say to leave the handle area at full thickness, in order to keep it as rigid as possible for the handle blank. How thick of a plank should I get?

You can get a good meaty handle on a bendy handle design. I build mine up with cloth and wrap it. I also add a thin layer of cloth to the back. The whole thing comes out thick and firm with just a touch of give to it. The bendy handle has become my favorite design for a lot of reasons and I've made more than few bows of both designs.  

BUT.... if you insist on a narrow stiff handle that is glued on, I would use another piece of 1" thick stock. That will give you a riser that is 2" thick. I would make it at least an inch wide. Make sure you do a first class glue job and make sure there is absolutely no bend happening near the glue lines or it will pop for sure. Also, don't let your glue lines extend too far out into the fades.

Good luck
Austin

Thanks for that, I will be using this info at some point. And I will be following this thread...yet another tard thing to get hooked on.lol

A good hickory backing would probably hold that bow together. At 1" thick at the handle and with a hickory backing you could add a riser and you should have no problem with the riser popping off.
Generally the reason risers pop off of bows is that they are bending where the riser is. With the proper step down from handle to limb any riser you add should be secure.  Your limb thickness when done, with the addition of the hickory backing will be about 3/8" to 1/2". Even with no riser the handle area shouldn't bend. With that thick of a board, you can add a thinner riser to the back of the handle and with a good transition area between limbs and handle you should be able to make a nice bow.   Pat

Tim Baker did one in the TBB volume one that used linen cord or hemp cord for a backing and it survived....the reason I bring that up is because the grain was similar to this one and someone earlier said that backing would not help save this bow.  I say do it, can't wait to see the result.

Thanks for all of the replies.

I was shaping the edge of the board with a Sureform last night, when the rasp pulled a large splinter from one of the growth rings. It looks like I won't be attempting anything with that one.

I was in town today, however and found a good looking board at Home Depot.

1"X2"X6' Red Oak:




I'll use the crooked grained board for the handle blank, an I'll back it. I just don't know what with. Hickory or bamboo maybe.

There you go looks good. Above board looks good from what I can see.That top board would be dangerous. See my site for more. Jawge

I have a question.Take into consideration,I haven't built any bows.Could the first board be salvaged if you ripped it all the way down at the same angle of the grain on both sides,and worked it down to a bow from there?

That is a possibility, but I don't think the board in the pic is wide to allow it. If the grain angle was a little less severe, or the board was a good bit wider, it might be possible on this stave. But IMO, the grain runs across at too steep of an angle to allow that on this particular board. Just my opinion.