Im assuming this type of ware on the shelf is a sign of an over spined arrow?  I didnt feel that my release was good enough to effectively bareshaft so i went off the recommendation of the arrow builder.   is it possible to bareshaft tune with less than the perfect release?

Different people have different opinions about this, but my opinion is that you can get meaningful results from bare shaft tuning as long as you have consistent form, draw length and release. HOWEVER, you can STILL get meaningful results from bare shaft tuning even if you're NOT always consistent as long as you KNOW when you're not consistent, so you can ignore those shots.

Similarly with the two best known methods of bare shaft tuning. The method where you observe where groups of bare shafts impact the target is probably the best method. However, if you don't shoot well enough to reliably group bare shafts, the other method where you observe the bare shaft flight for nock orientation is perfectly fine as long as long as you know when you've made a bad shot and ignore that one. I am able to reliably group bare shaft impact points at 10 yards, but I still prefer observing the bare shaft flight for nock orientation because I don't like having more than one bare shaft for each type of arrow I shoot.

If you observe nock orientation in the target rather than when in flight, make sure that your target is not made of some type of material that changes the angle of the bare shaft when it hits the target.

I don't know much about bare shaft tuning,but that sure does look way too stiff.

What's your set up?

Raise your nock 1/16 , are you shooting cock feather in (Towards the riser)?

Set up is 55 to 57 lb recurve at my draw depending on the scale. (Cant find any 2 to match). Grizzlystik 320 cut to 29".  200 grain head with im assuming about 140 grain of insert weight to get total arrow weight to 650 with out wrap and fletch.  Yes, i shoot cock feather in. Split finger.

I've never gotten good results from plain bare shaft shooting. 2 fletched and 2 bare shafts and go by the grouping has worked a lot better. Another thing that helps tie a thin rope across the middle of your bag target top to bottom. Aim for the line and center of bag. The arrows fletched or bare will group left or right of the "line" or rope and is another way to verifie what's happening. Also don't change anything until you've had the same groupings consistently changing tip weight after one grouping for example can cause you to misdiagnose a problem. Start close 10 yards and work back if you cannot group arrows at 10 yards move to 5 if you can't group at 5 yards tuning is the least of your concerns.

Just curious, why cock feather in??

Honestly it really doesnt matter but in my head cock feather in allows for more fletching clearance

Frankly, that is the most excessive shelf wear I've ever seen . something is seriously amiss. What spine are 320's, I'm thinking like 70#? I shoot .500 spine  at that draw weight although with much less point weight.

320s are spined 50 to 70#