I have a very difficult time sharpening anything. Ibhave a kme broadhead sharpener with the two stones that came with it, instill cant seem to get an edge.  I have bear razor heads and magbus 2 blade.  How long should it take? Maybe im just to impatient.  Any advave is appreciated  im tiered of  thanks.

I'm struggling with zwickey's on the kme  also.

I had a KNE  knife sharpener, no problems whatsoever with that

Use the course stone until you get a burr on along the entire edge. You spend the most time on this stone.  After you do all 4 bevels, then you go to the finer stone and polish the edge. 
  Use fairly light pressure, especially with the fine stone. You really can't rush it or cheat it.  It takes some patience.

Use a file - then go to your KME
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Sojurn,  im pretty sure thats my main problemni expect/want it to happen faster than  it does.  Spending 15 to 20 minutes on one edge without getting things sharp gets me alittle frustrated. I know it is not the kme thats the issue.  Was thinking of trying the paper wheels for a bench grinder but i also know im not good at holding the right angle.

What angle do you have you KME set on? I sharpened up some old Magnus 2 blades last week at 25 degrees and they are shaving sharp. Blacken the beveled edge with a magic marker and start with the coarse stone. Work with the coarse stone until you end up with a shiny, uniform bevel, then switch sides and do the same thing. Switch to the finer stone and with light pressure do 10-12 strokes, then go to the other side of the blade and repeat. DO the same thing again on both sides with fewer strokes each time. I usually go 10 per side, then 8,6,4,2 and 1.
Also, try to clamp the head so the the bevel is relatively close to parallel to the clamp so that you contact the bevel evenly. I use the KME knife sharpener, so I am assuming that the clamp is similar. Good luck!

2nd the file then KME. 

Mike, i have the older kme broadhead sharpener i cant adjust the angle.  Thatnks for the tips!  What type of file would you guys recommend?

I use an 8" flat bastard

Buy a few files at Tractor Supply I bought a batch of 5 for around $12 they work great.

Quote from: bowmaster12 on September 21, 2020, 09:08:17 PM
Mike, i have the older kme broadhead sharpener i cant adjust the angle.  Thatnks for the tips!  What type of file would you guys recommend?

This in either the 6" or 8", you do want it to be a "smooth" file not medium or course.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001R1QCW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd stick with the stones over the files. You're going to have an easier time maintaining the proper angle with the stones.

I agree with Sojurn. It shouldn't take 20 minutes for one head with that type of system. That's what I use,and it's really quick.

I take the coarse stone,and create the burr,and then do the other side,but don't spend too much time on the other side. All you are doing on the other side is lapping the burr over. Then take your medium stone and do the same thing on down to the fine. It's pretty quick once you find the right angle,and you can do that with a marker.

I struggle with all sharpening system. With KME, I found I was often bearing down too hard and not always getting a smooth stroke on the stone.

There's something in our brain that makes us use way to much pressure when sharpening.  I see this when I'm teaching people to sharpen knives as well.  Let the stone do the work, if your knuckles and fingers are turning white because of the pressure you're exerting, its to much.
  Again, the coursest stone will take the most time(more than all of the other stones combined), after that it goes really fast.

Or, call KME.  He will explain it to you and walk you through it.
He did with me. Very helpful guy.

I use it on Zwickeys, and their thick tip is an obstacle at first.
What works for me is to use a black marker on the blade, then use the KME  first with a #80 grit sandpaper, and use it till the marker wears uniformly. At the beginning it will wear on the tip and at the end of the broadhead. Continue till it wears down along the whole blade. After that, you can go to a #120 sandpaper, then to the #300 stone. Put the marker back every time you switch grit. After I am done with the #300 I can feel that the actual sharpening process has begun. You shouldn't need the marker after that, and use #600 and #1200 for sharpening.

More in detail: on the sandpaper I only run the blade "away" from it, as I am not sure the blade might cut the sandpaper. On the #300 stone then I run the blade both directions till the marker wears out. You only need this once per broadhead; once it's done, you have rebeveled it and removed the "excess" tip coating.
After that the sharpening starts: I do 300 --> 600 --> 1200 only toward the blade. These last three are the actual sharpening process, and they require lighter pressure than the rest. Basically the weight of the  KME is enough ( use diamond stones). For future sharpening iterations you might just need the 600 and 1200 steps, depending on how dull/damaged the blade is.

Another thing I have noticed is that if the angle is not acute enough, they won't come razor sharp. So you need to set the KME to  the angle that makes them as sharp as you like. The more acute the angle between stone and blade, the sharper it will come, but the edge will be more delicate, so I like not to go all the way down with the screw.

Just my two cents, hope it helps.
Best,
Max

Madmax makes a great point about working the edge until it is wearing evenly. Sharpies help with this but eventually you will get the feel and an eye for when the edge is even.

Go slow with lighter pressure than you think and keep at it.

Im giving it another try today with the tips you huys have given me.  This is what i have so far.  Do i just keep going and it will even itself out, or do i need to put pressure on the jaws to get it to wear even? Thanks