Hardwood arrows 29" spined 95/100# 265 grains up front, bow 66#+ D/R longbow.  Arrows are tailing up and left, but hit close to point of aim although slightly left.  This means stiff right? 

Raise your knock height a little and try it again. Might be able to tune that out

Wud are you a lefty? Seems to me if you're a righty who cants his bow, a tail up and left would mean weak spine. Think about it, if it were the opposite, the arrow would not be flexing around the riser properly causing it to impact tail down and right because your shelf is cut left of center.

I would trim your shaft a hair if you are happy with your point weight and don't want to go lighter.

Bare shaft nock left right handed shooter is weak.

These shafts/arrows were given to me four fletch parabolic 5/16" diameter.   I'll take 75 grain woodie weight off one and see what my mileage is.  Shooting right handed.

2nd CS or a false weak.

"Bare shaft nock left right handed shooter is weak."
X2.
'Cept, for me, could also be false weak. Hearing the arrow strike the side plate at all? Any fishtail visible in flight?

Wood is pretty quiet, but do see fletch kicking a bit.

If you can do so without losing or breaking arrows, then taking a few 50 yard shots will likely allow you to see a full fishtail/tailwhip and you'll know you're weak then for sure. But I'm pretty sure you're weak.

Plan to back down point weight and report back.

Ok, taking the 75 grain woodie weight off helped, now I think it's the particular arrow that is causing the problem.  Even with good focused form it flies a bit off.  I'll try other arrows from the bunch and am confident that will resolve the issue. 

Quote from: caleb7mm on July 03, 2020, 11:58:44 PM
Raise your knock height a little and try it again. Might be able to tune that out

Ditto I like a stiff spine arrow not to much. 

After a long time trying different methods, I now just shoot bare shafts that I have added tape wraps to compensate for fletching weight.  I start with my intended point weight and shaft a bit long.  Tweaking strike plate thickness and arrow length is used for adjustments.  If shooting carbons, I found that even 1/4" makes a difference.  Aluminum and woods, not nearly as critical for shaft length.
The down side is that bare shafts will show all of your poor shooting issues.  If I grab the handle or pluck the string, it immediately shows with bare shafts.  But it teaches me to be a better shooter.

These arrows were given to me cut to length.  I am playing with point weight to see what happens and will probably be stumping arrows or hog arrows, as most shots would be 10 yards or less.  Taking off the woodie weight helped and can drop to 160 grains if needed.  The Maple arrows are shorter and like the WW added.  Probably pick up 6 shafts 85/90 and rat tail tapered.

do the nock last first raise the brace height to get the spine in check and see what the arrows do,,,,, the string nock is easy but make sure you have a straight elbow and even pressure on those fingers ... 

knocking 15gr off the front would help too....     at 20yds you shouldn't see anything cept the color of the nock..   

If taking the 75 grain WW off does not fix, I'll drop to 160 grain Snuffer weight heads.

Strangely adjusting string silencers 2" from 12" to 1/4 of string length from nocks has helped a bunch!  Arrow flight has improved and noise is a solid thump.  Grouping has tightened.

I have done that. The closer silencers are to the nock, the longer the distance they must travel to rest, and the more time for drag to accumulate to reduce speed, which amounts to less force on the arrow to flex the the shaft, correcting the weakness in dynamic spine.

Slightly slower arrows and a MUCH quieter bow.

Are you talking arrow nock or NTN string groove?  They seem fast because they are not tailing left. These arrows should be @10# over-spined.