Hi guys.
Need some advice from you recurve experts.
I have a recurve design I want to improve but don't know how. So some guidelines will be helpful.
The bow is 64" long
Has a 19" riser with 23" power lam.
I use 0.003" taper in it.
Limb width is 1.5" (because the the glass I have).

Now here are the things i want to change:
First, I want to make is shorter- 60" or so.
The current design has some handshock- how do i get rid of it?
I want to make it draw smoother. I didn't do a FDC but the draw just doesn't "feel" smooth enough for a recurve.

These are the main issues I'd like to improve.
Any advice would be welcome
Thanks

Just leave your hook the same and shorten the limb on the butt end. Go to a .001 taper with stable core.

Change the angle at the riser, go up about a inch at the nock. Don't change the limb curves , just the angle.

For hand shock
Post a picture of the limb width, and how wide is it at the nock

Google recurve hand shock

You will be shortening the working limb going to 60 in. may help the vibration. With the .oo1 and limb side tapering you can get more performance also. And a bigger rounder hook. Get to crazy there tho and gonna need carbon to keep the limbs from going sideways.

For the handshock you can try more density in the riser by using a dymondwood or other laminated type wood. It will help absorb some of the vibration.

Quote from: Crooked Stic on April 12, 2020, 08:42:25 PM
You will be shortening the working limb going to 60 in. may help the vibration. With the .oo1 and limb side tapering you can get more performance also. And a bigger rounder hook. Get to crazy there tho and gonna need carbon to keep the limbs from going sideways.

Side tapering like a pyramid taper or going parallel up to a point and the taper to the tips?

With the less lam taper or even parallel you gain stability. Then side taper to make your limbs bend where they work the best. I tried parallel but like .001 the best.

Quote from: Crooked Stic on April 12, 2020, 08:42:25 PM
You will be shortening the working limb going to 60 in. may help the vibration. With the .oo1 and limb side tapering you can get more performance also.

Would you maybe shorten the power lam or overall riser length to drop down to 60"?

Quote from: beachbowhunter on April 13, 2020, 09:27:11 AM

Quote from: Crooked Stic on April 12, 2020, 08:42:25 PM
You will be shortening the working limb going to 60 in. may help the vibration. With the .oo1 and limb side tapering you can get more performance also.

Would you maybe shorten the power lam or overall riser length to drop down to 60"?

But that will give me, again, a longer working limb.. wouldn't the keep the hand shock?

19" riser, 22" power lam, 19" working limb---22"+19"+19"=60"

Quote from: Mad Max on April 14, 2020, 03:08:02 PM
19" riser, 22" power lam, 19" working limb---22"+19"+19"=60"

And that should be safe for a up to what draw length?

I have a 58" with 18-1/4" working limb, I don't see why it would not. It would do a 28" draw
Now you have 23" power lam and 20-1/2" working limb.

To find out do a FDC see where it stacks.

So it`s been a while but I got to it and made the changes to my design.
I moved the limbs 1" forward, kept the same curve.
19" riser
22" power lam
switched to 0.001" taper

Here`s where I`m at now, after the bow it out of the form, roughly shaped, tillered and I also made a FDC.

This is the old design next to the new on:


This is it on top of the new one (so you can see the difference in the limb angle)


Here`s the new bow strung


Full draw 28" (I think it looks like the bottom limb is bending a bit more because of the camera angle. I checked the tiller and it`s even).


And here`s the FDC


Now, I`m no expert by any means, but I think it looks pretty good. It draws smoothly up to 30" (currect me if I`m reading the FDC wrong).
As for hand shock- I`ll finish it and shoot it.

I`d like to know what do you guys think.

I think you made the right moves, looks awesome

see the 5.18 at 30"--stacking
so your good to 29"

Is it a common thing for a 60" recurve to stack at 30"?

One thing I see is you need to thin your fade ramp down quite a bit. Actually get it where it is flexing a bit. If you think about a TD with a 17 in. riser and wedges with a lot longer fade to fade that are still smooth to 30  in. Did you try going past 30 to see if it stays the same. You string angle still looks ok.
.

Regarding the fades, I follow the rule of 1" from the end- 1/16" thick, 2" from the end- 1/8".

I might have a mistake in the measurement, but I'm pretty sure not.

One more thing is, I really want to know what the changes I did actually work? How does the taper change helped the smoothness etc....

The .oo1 taper keeps you limb stable in the hooks. Then you can play with  your taper profile to make the limb bend different. Kinda weird that it hit the wall that bad at 30 in. seems it should gain more gradual.