So I've watched and read a lot on Dr. Ashbys research on efoc arrows and I want to give them a try.   I've searched the forums and got a good idea of what I need to do but I'm kind of overwhelmed when it comes to shaft selection.

I live in a small remote town so the nearest archery store is 3 hours away.   I might be able to find someone top cut my arrows but it would be easier for me to have them pre cut and then tune using point weight and side plate adjustments.

I'm looking for a good shafts to order that can get me into the efoc uefoc range.
Here's me setup

Bear super kodiak with reinforced tips
10 strand ff string
45# at 28"I pull 29.25 inches

Any suggestions would be great, I know this is a common topic on the forum so thank you for your patience and help.

your gonna need to be able to cut your own arrows, so get a dremel and cut off wheels or something. its just part of the carbon tuning thing. just saying..

Yeh I literally cut my arrows with my dremel by hand. I do it from the nock end so I can glue my insert into the shaft yet still be able to shorten the arrow while bare shafting. After I cut it I just hold it up at eye level and flatten it so it looks good. I'm sure it isn't perfect to the thousandth of an inch but it works great!
This was a must for me because if you get them too short from someone else you are screwed.
Depending on where you want to end up with overall arrow weight look for the lightest stiff arrow you can find and start with them full length.
I bought field points up to 300grns.
I think 3 rivers has a test kit with 3 different spines arrows. Maybe they will sell you 3 heavy spined ones.
You'll probably shoot a .400 or .350 with a 300grn point with your setup but don't quote me on that.
Patience will be your best bet.
Good luck!

I guess I'll have to get a dremel then.
Any suggestions for shafts that will work for me?
If I buy a test kit will one 400 spine shaft be close enough to another brand in the same spine?

This is what I use,much better than a dremel.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html

Hey,  thanks for that link,  that looks like a good option.

Easton bloodline arrows are fairly light and affordable. You can also get brass inserts for them.

I will check this out.   I realize it's going to take a lot of tinkering but it's a bit daunting for my first time.   Thank you all for the help.

I also cut my arrows with a dremel. I've ruined a few though and it's not as easy as I imagined. One thing that I found helped is what my hunting partner recommended. I clamp the dremel down. Then I slowly bring the arrow towards it on a block, and gently rotate the arrow to cut it smoothly. I use the G5 arrow squaring device to finish off.
I will be investing in the little saw that another poster listed. I found these handy instructions for a pretty bomber arrow saw on the cheap. I haven't made one yet but it looks great.
https://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/hunting/2014/01/custom-arrow-archery-saw-cutting/
Not sure if this applies to your situation but i'm really happy with easton trad only arrows (sold on 3 rivers).
I also live far from an archery shop. Just figured out how to remove inserts so i'm pretty happy that i'm now finally independent when it comes to arrow work and rework!

Thank you for the link. I'll be setting up something similar. Will the blade on that saw suffice or will it splinter three carbon?

For EFOC arrows you'll want light shafts and heavy points. A good budget option is Gold Tip Velocity arrows and gold tip 100gr brass inserts. As was said before, cut your arrows with a dremel and then square them on an arrow squaring device (ASD). I have the carbon express ASD and I like it. not as good as the G5 but much cheaper. Just make sure you get as close to square as you can with the dremel.

If you are going with 300gr points and a 100gr insert, you will likely want 340 or 400 spine. 400 might be cutting it close though...

It is really hard to get EFOC arrows that aren't >13-14 grains per pound of draw weight.

Quote from: BearBandit on February 24, 2020, 12:30:56 PM
Thank you for the link. I'll be setting up something similar. Will the blade on that saw suffice or will it splinter three carbon?

I don't have experience with the blade on the saw but the field and stream article suggests it will splinter carbon, and they suggest an alternate blade.

There are so many options haha, I've been looking at arrows for 2 days steady now.   Are tapered shafts worth the price?  Is arrow dynamics a good shaft because their prices seem pretty reasonable compared to grizzly stick.   Or should I just stick with a parallel shaft?

Thanks again everyone who answered

The key to getting EFOC or UEFOC is getting a light arrow shaft.  I've attained  UEFOC over 30 % with shafts from both Victory and Black Eagle.  Look for shafts with a weight of around 7 gpi.   

My current set up is 31.5% foc with Black Eagle,  X Impacts 400 spine cut 29.375" and 346gr up front (including outsert).   Currently using 4" fletch but they fly just like darts with 3" too.  Total weight = 560 gr.  And shoot great from either a 56# Big River R/D or a 51# Adcock ACS R/D.

Quote from: BearBandit on February 23, 2020, 09:44:22 PM
I guess I'll have to get a dremel then.
Any suggestions for shafts that will work for me?
If I buy a test kit will one 400 spine shaft be close enough to another brand in the same spine?

I would get 1/2 dozen 400 spine arrows. With 400 spine you should be able to achieve your goal. Your gonna need more than one.

I have built arrows from both parallel shafts and the AD shafts.  Each has its own place.  I think the first question should be why are you wanting to build EFOC or UEFOC shafts.

I have been active here when Ashby's stuff came out.  It can be beneficial with the right bow for special needs on large,  heavy hide and boned game.  If thats your requirement reason pleas tell us. FOC of 20% is good enough.

OK, so lets say you need these arrows for large thick skinned beasties.  I would, as has been said above, start with something about 400 spine in a parallel shaft or in the case of AD shafts 325 in the Hammerhead or 350 in the Stinger.  There is a listing for X-lite at 7.8 gpi for that arrow.  Be sure, if you order from AD you request the highest priced shafts.  These will be the straightest and closest in weight shaft to shaft.

Now the fun begins.  You will need to "tune" these slowly to your bow and your form.  This can mean adding weight up front while shortening the shaft.  On the AD's I always shortened from the front and added weight.

A heavy arrow on a 45# bow will lose flight pretty quick (my experience) after about 20+/- yards.  You need to make the choice.

Just my thoughts.....

I don't take shots at animals over 15 yards,  I killed my doe this year at under 8.  My plan is to hang up the rifle and use my recurve to harvest a moose this year.   I was shooting zwickeys last year with glue in adapters for a point weight of 175gr.
Thank you for the help and suggestions.

The Harbor Freight saw is plenty good and the original blade will last for many dozen shafts. I measure the shafts. Then put a piece of blue tape where the cut will be. I don't get any splinters that way. One of the best $25 investments I made. Half of what my Dremal cost.

Isn't carbon dust something to be avoided when cutting arrows?

For sure it is,  I'll either wear a mask or setup my shop vac