Does anyone know if EA-40 or G2 leaves bubbles under the glass or is cloudy if you don't heat cure the bow?

My current hunting bow has no bubbles, was glued with EA-40 and cured 24 hours at 70ish just to see if it worked. Had heard some bowyers were not heating and wanted to see for myself. No probs yet but I still heat all of them since.

I think the bubbles come from wood not totally dried.

It should not. If you have bubbles it's due to something else.
Is that question for a future project or something that happened to you?

Its a future project, a takedown longbow with clear glass.

Thanks Kenny.

http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=148381.msg2579663#msg2579663

http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=146775.msg2554853#msg2554853


Or

http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?action=search2

Kenny thanks, those were good links.

Only if you are mixing with this;
[attachment=1]

Or you could press like this if you want to be certain all the air is evacuated from your blank;
[attachment=2]

Flem that looks complicated to me lol

It don't need to be, I bagged a boo backed board bow with a food saver. Dunno what Flem gets but a food saver is about 24" Hg (-12psi) and that's pretty respectable for home use.

Super easy, just a tube of vacuum bag and a cheapo food saver. Plus I see no reason it couldn't be done on a form either.

Actually If you heat them too quick (before the bubbles have a chance to get out) cause a problem. If you use a certain wood you know soaks a lot of glue let it set a bit then put on some more where it soaks. I have found the spectraply actionwood veneers need plenty of glue and the stabilecore also. If you cure at room temp and you got plenty of glue on there the bubbles should have plenty of time to get out. And dont use chemicals on your wood to clean it.

The other thing you need to pay attention to is surface tension. Something can look wetted out, but just be coated. It helps to make sure your surfaces are warm for absorption and extra attention to the glass, which don't absorb squat, but might look wetted out. I lightly clamp one end of a lam, etc. and beat the epoxy into the surface with a cut down chip brush in one hand and a heat gun in the other. Heat gun on low really makes the epoxy flow nice and does not shorten the thin film working time.