Veneer looks great. I usually sand belly glass if needed, I believe most do.
I usually map limbs at brace and at 20 inches draw to see if limbs are bending the same. I draw the profile on a long piece of paper and then flip the bow over to see if the lines correspond. I believe it helps both limbs slam home at the same time and eliminate hand shock, vibration and noice.
This is my square head approach, which works sometimes.

Yes Bue limb timing.

Looking good Kenny.

I'm with you on timing but don't folks trap the back to gain speed ?

Also been told it makes no diff where you trap...

I have not tried trapping glass limbs so don't know if speed gain is achieved.
I think Black Widow does it, at least they used to.

I don't have any notes on that, but think BW does the back.

I only really trapped two bows. Did them both with a file. (I would screw up big time with power tools  )
Dont know either about performance. I did it for weight loss on the front. I do find that about 4 light passes on each corner with a spindle sander and then even up with a flat block will get about 3-4 lbs. off.

I have shot a Black Widow with the limbs trapped on back, don't know about speed though. Did it on one bow using a file hoping to lose a few pounds, didn't help as much as I had hoped it would. Sorry but no solid data in it, looking good!

Breakdown or set in ASLs is the result of tension of the back overcoming the compressive resistance of the belly.  Some ASL Bowyers trap the back to defend against set.

Started putting overlays on but haven't made it far. Here are the limbs under glass and what I'm gonna use as final overlays . Got some black glass under em ...




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Should be nice looking.

Nice work Kenny. Love the profile !  Haven't been on this board in a while but glad to see you are still at it.

Hey Brad! Thanks!

Working on it a bit today.  Ice and snow tonite and tomorrow so may have her done this weekend

Yup on limb timing, I achieve my equal limb timing making the trees pull rope follow the black vertical line on the tree/wall.

https://youtu.be/cf7CnshkW7I

Equal limb timing makes a smooth, quiet, no hand shock, accurate, fast bow.

I trap back and belly edges of limbs.

Looks real nice, Kenny.

Thats gonna be a nice lookin bow Kenny. Love those veneers.


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Grip overlay glued on . Shaping and sight window next ...



NOTE :  When you do a grip overlay like this one, note the relief cut on grip center. Easier to get good fit cause it flexes a bit. Don't cut deep enough to get in grip throat!!

Also when you sand your glass for the overlay, use a curved block, it'll surprise you how bumpy the glass surface is from the lams and riser! If you smooth it out with a block the overlay can be shaped on a disc sander pretty easily...


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And if you take a piece of 2x6 and cut out the riser hump and lay the bow in it you have a flat surface for your clamps to go on.

Hey Roy what if you advance the timing will shoot dem arras quicker. 

Quote from: Roy from Pa on January 16, 2020, 01:30:18 PM
Yup on limb timing, I achieve my equal limb timing making the trees pull rope follow the black vertical line on the tree/wall.

Hey Roy, I made something similar to time my limbs but it didn't work at all. Do you secure the riser in the timing tree, or is the bow free to tilt from side to side? The problem I had with mine was that I couldn't even get the bow to sit level before I went to pull the rope. I messed with it for a while and just gave up on it.

May be a little off topic but what are the general dimensions and material you are using for the tip wedges on your FHLB's?

Nathan