I'm working up a hunting arrow for my new Elkheart. It's 60" and 50 @ 28" but I'm drawing real close to 31". My 300 Trad Only's are showing weak still. The arrows are cut 31 1/2" and I'm shooting a175 gr tip w/ a 50 gr brass insert. I don't want to go much lighter up front. I real close but thought I might as well try a 250. Thanks Guys.

How are you testing your shafts? I would expect that set up should be reading too stiff as is.

As far as an 250 spined shaft? The only one I have ever used is an Easton FMJ with Firenock inserts. But that was out of an 80# wheel bow.

I bare shafted till I couldn't cut anymore off. Fletching and wrap helped a little but still s tad weak. The 3 Rivers calculator shows them as being slightly weak as well.

Okay. Well I had a good experience with the fmjs if that helps.

Good luck with that, I have the same draw length and can never find arrows stiff enough with the vast majority of recurves 60" or less and longbows 64" or less. I think it's got more to do with the bow length and less to do with arrow spines!

I think you might be right. I've just went from a 70" Echo and now I have to relearn the entire process. I'm close though. I think if I added wait to the tail it might be better but I'd rather get a stiffer shaft and add to the nose.

You might be hitting the side plate. Trying going heavier with the point wt and longer shaft.
Tedd

Try .350 spine for that point weight
.300 and furthermore .250 are way to stiff for that bow, cut close to center and  sub 60# at 31".
I draw close to an inch longer than you with bows cut far past center in the lower 60 and I need more than 300 gr point on full lenght shaft (32") spine 300
I killed my waterbuff using a 67# recurve true centershot at 32" with a 33" .250 axis and 450 grain point and was a little on the stiff side with that set up.
My actual go to bow is a 57# at 32" recurve cut 3/16 pqst center and my set up is 32" black eagle outlaw 350 shafts with 100 gr insert and 225 BH. I killed with that set up plenty game from pigs and deer to oryx and blue wildebeest.

Quote from: Tedd on June 13, 2019, 04:25:24 PM
You might be hitting the side plate. Trying going heavier with the point wt and longer shaft.
Tedd

this is the ticket. 340 need 240 grains up front , 300 would need way more.

Thanks Guys. BUT I'm confused. When I type in that info into 3 Rivers spine calculator I show the 340's as weak??? I'll shoot some again tonight. It doesn't take a lot to confuse me.

My arrows always show way weak on those calculators. Try adding an inch or two to the footing entry for the length of the insert.
Tedd

Thanks Guys. I didn't bare shaft today but the 340's I had are all over the place but I did shoot some arrows I had fletched up. Trad Only 300's 32" long , 50gr insert and 250gr tip. These were all touching or almost touching for the limited shooting I did. Raining like crazy here. I appreciate all the help.

Are you getting side plate wear with the 300 spine shafts? You may be torquing the riser into the arrow, which is something I've struggled with in the past. It makes a stiffer arrow seem to spine out properly, but the real issue is your bow hand.

 I don't think so. I haven't had this bow very long. I guess anything is possible. The 300's I last described seem to be shooting well. At least for today.

31" draw have fun...yikes

Just will state what others have said.  You are almost certainly overspined with 300, and can probably make 340 or 350 spine work. Arrows hitting the sideplate will give a false reading, and so will arows that are too stiff contacting the shelf.  Sometimes all that is needed is raising the nock point a little too keep from hitting the shelf, Good luck.

And fletched arrows touching only shows that you are consistant.  Not that you are getting good arrow flight,  but you probably already know that.

Roger that. But they all appeared to entering the target at the same angle horizontally and vertically. The arrows with lighter heads were not as symmetrical. It's a journey, right??? Thanks Guys

I always tune with broadheads...fletched arrows and broadheads.  Once I'm close I switch to broadheads and you can't fake good arrow flight.

That's kind of my plan this time around. I have mixed results with bare shafting. Sometimes I paper tune. But I guess the goal is to get a Broadhead to fly true so I'm going to go that route. Thanks Guys