The crack runs from the handle section out into the limb. Deal breaker?

Not necessarily. Depends on how much of the finished bow will it affect.

Pure speculation, because I would likely burn that piece of wood, unlike Pat B. or Eric K. who could make a bow out of a 2X4.
Could you drill perpendicular to the crack and drive a in a wood pin to keep the wood from shearing?
And or wrap the area with resin soaked fiberglass?

I think a pin might work or maybe two.

You might be able to scab on another piece of wood it the splinter is removed.

Before scraping it I would try to fill the crack with super thin CA glue, then drilling and pinning it like Flem suggested. What have you got to lose except a couple bucks for  glue and some time but you may end up with a serviceable bow..  I would consider it a learning experience no mater which way it turns out.

If that was my bow I would take some super thin superglue and fill that crack a couple of times.  Then I would continue making the bow.  As I remove wood from the cracked area I would reapply the superglue until I got to the finished limb thickness.  I'd bet a crisp $1 bill that it would make a bow.

This is the super thin superglue that I use.  It is great stuff.  About the same viscosity as rubbing alcohol.  I get it from ebay.  Per oz. it's cheaper than buying loctite superglue at walmart.

I'm so glad you posted that Clint! I've been looking for extra thin superglue. Thanks

If I were going to try the superglue deal, I'd first shape it as close to finished bow dimensions as possible to be sure the glue got deeply and fully into what will ultimately be the finished bow. That way there's no chance it will stop short in extra wood that will be removed afterwards... or, if it has too far to go and stops short in the bow and dries there, it can also prevent additional applications from fully penetrating.

You could also cut a portion off the belly side, making it flat and thinner, then glue on a 12 inch riser which should run out past the end of the crack.

[attachment=1]

Is that a drying crack? Drying cracks that run off the sides, as that does, are problematic.
Jawge

Early on I bought into the drill and pin for strength and found the pins compromised the wood and caused failures in bending wood.

I would super glue the crack, this would probably correct the problem. If not you can do like was suggested and add an overlay or a new handle that takes out the crack.

This is my most radical handle repair with added wood, this was about 15 years ago and as far as I know the bow is still shooting. This is a BBO so the bamboo has had a lot do with keeping it together.

The same bow a few years ago after a guy contacted me to see about a bow he found in a bow shop in Chattanooga, the bow initially went to Connecticut.

Quote from: Flem on June 08, 2019, 10:14:34 AM
And or wrap the area with resin soaked fiberglass?

Flem has a good idea...  But you don't need glass...  Soak thin cotton string in resin and wrap your bow with it...  It looks more earthy than glass and will hold just as well for what you need it for...

   I mention this idea all the time...  Few have ever responded to it and often ignored...  I think only only one or two people on here actually do it...  It is very strong and can add character to a bow considering also the fact that you can make a usable, strong bow instead of trashing it...  This method should definitely be in one's arsenal of bow making methods...  Maybe one day some of you will see the light...     

 

Got further into the stave today. Here is a better pic.

Does that crack go the whole way through to the other side?

No just on the belly side.

After supergluing the crack I would give it a 1" wrap where it runs off the limb to be on the safe side.

I use serving thread for the wrap and soak it in superglue.

Like this;

After getting further into the stave it appears that the crack is only going to be in the handle section.