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danish oil on glass?

Started by reini, March 06, 2019, 06:44:32 AM

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reini

Hi there!

I want to try to finish my next glass bow with danish oil or maybe tru oil.
Have recently seen some dark wood finished with it and that looked really good!

But I'm wondering if danish oil will also work on fiberglass?
Anyone ever used it on clear glass?
Any problems or something to pay attention to?

Thx Reini
Timberpoint Odyssey II 43#@30"
Hunter's Niche Predator Hunter DX 38#@28"
Some self-made D/R Longbows

Mike L.

I don't know for sure, but I think danish oil would be good to treat the wood portion of the bow before applying a finish and probably wouldn't do anything for the fiberglass.  I think, if anything, it might build up on the glass and not much else.


Mike
Mike L.

KenH

No oil finish is going to soak into fiberglass. 
Living Aboard the s/v ManCave

reini

Quote from: KenH on March 06, 2019, 07:06:00 AM
No oil finish is going to soak into fiberglass.

Ok, but maybe it will adhere to it?

Seems danish oil is no good idea for glass limbs.
But how do you guys finish the limbs when finishing the wood surface with oil?
Leave blank, or use something else?

Reini
Timberpoint Odyssey II 43#@30"
Hunter's Niche Predator Hunter DX 38#@28"
Some self-made D/R Longbows

Mark R

You can use tru oil on glass, sand lightly with 400 grit and apply sparingly with one finger and old t shirt circularly, let dry and continue 3-4 times. Does'nt take much.

Pat B

I've used Tru-Oil on glass bows with good results but I've never used danish oil. I think Danish oil is a penetrating oil so it wouldn't be effective over glass.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

Flem

I wouldn't use Danish oil, its mostly solvents with a little petroleum oil. Not meant as a surface finish. Tru oil is made with drying oils, polymerized tung and linseed, would be a better choice if you want a rub on finish, although your paying for mostly solvents once again. Or you could get some pure tung oil and thin it yourself. Depending on what solvent used, you can adjust the drying time.

Forwardhandle

I did this one a while back with tru oil, the first couple coats I thinned down with mineral spirts then regular coats it ended up shinny but buffed it out matt its a tuff finish I drug it threw heavy brush all hunting season holds up well just time consuming to apply !

[attachment=1]
If you fear failure, you will never try ! But never except it!!

reini

Thx guys!
Think I'll try Tru-Oil instead of Danish.
Timberpoint Odyssey II 43#@30"
Hunter's Niche Predator Hunter DX 38#@28"
Some self-made D/R Longbows

Pat B

Put the Tru-Oil down lightly and buff well with 0000 steel wool between coats. 5 or 6 coats should give you a nice finish. If you don't want the shiny surface a quick spray of satin poly will cut the shine.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

Forwardhandle

I found a pic of the riser before any finish was put on and the other pic was 9 coats total over 1 1/2 weeks but when appling to the glass areas make sure your coats are very thin as it has a tendency to puddle ! Looking forward to your pics !

[attachment=1]
If you fear failure, you will never try ! But never except it!!

monterey

Be sure to wipe the steel wool remnants off the bow after rubbing it down.  You can also go over it with a big refrigerator magnet to pick up the stuff that you may not see.
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

Forwardhandle

You can also use ground pumice powder mixed with olive or mineral oil to buff in a nice matt finish thats my go to matt finish now a days it gives a little finer finish !
If you fear failure, you will never try ! But never except it!!

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