Maybe, but not all dumb! 

At least I like the handle...




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NICE 

That is a sweet looking handle

That grey action wood is awesome !

Nice bro..

Shaping on it now, had to shoot it. Seems to have the vibe that Mike's had. We may just be used to longbows.  A heavy handle might help too.  Not handshock just  a little vibe after the shot.

Send it my way Ken . I'll shoot it in for you! If it was 20# I would say sent it to Roy.

Hey boobacker, your yew bow broke today when I was trying to pry the door open...

Ha mine is bad Kenny. had to crank it up to 8 1/2 brace and gets some better. I am think shorter working limb to bring the preload up    Yellar and gray works. About anything works with gray. I am thinking when I get time I may use my limb profile into a three piece.

I dont think so, it's to heavy for you to PICK up.
 

Looking good Kenny.

Unless something changes , this is the only bow off this form.  The 58" FHLB is faster , better lookin , easier to string, easier to build, and faster...

Still tweaking on it tho, will see...

My thinking is the riser needs to be about 22 in. and PL two in. past the fades. shortens the working limb = a lot less mass to move and more preload. Think about a TD that would have a 17 in. riser and wedges maybe 3-4 past the end. Shortens the working limb a bunch.

Great lookin bow Kenny! Questions for you. Keep in mind I'm a self bow, with a bendy handle kinda a guy. I've been making bows a while now, but just getting into some glass bows, and I'm fairly new to this whole riser thing. The piece you added to the belly side appears to be simply for the sake of bulking up the handle area in order to cut in the grip design you prefer. My question is.. Is that piece needed for the structure of it, or just for building up the handle.

The reason I ask is, because I really like the looks of that bow without that piece. You posted a full draw pic without it. Also being more into the bendy handle bow, I am used to and prefer a small handle area. Next question is if you were to cut into the handle area without that added piece, is that gonna cause an issue with weakness at the handle? I'd be carving into the glass simply to round some edges. Thanks for the input.

Tattoo Dave

I will let Kenny answer but here is one being pulled to 31" draw with no belly lam on, I do 90% of the tiller before putting on the belly lam ,CS Mike above you there has made a few with barely any belly lam on ,with that riser sandwiched between the glass its pretty strong , I never cut in a arrow rest and arrow pass with out the belly lam in place but thought about doing one like you said !

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The belly grip overlay is not needed entirely for strength, but without it the glass will be wide and flat on the belly and uncomfortable to shoot.  On glass bows , if you can keep the riser from being bendy, it will increase performance quite a lot. 

The grip overlay adds to the flat where the glass is to round the belly of grip to be comfy.   If you rounded without it you would be pretty well rid of the glass on belly which adds a lot of strength. 

I was thinking about just rounding the glass a tad and doing a padded leather wrap make it look kinda traditional your bow looks awsome Kenny I think its hard to top the performance of the FHLB , if it ever stops snowing I can find out on my lattest I think is going to be my fastest one but will see 

You ca always Ibeam your riser for the strength. I shape thru most of my belly glass on forward handles with no problems. Roy likes this one

All great info. Thanks everyone!

Tattoo Dave