It seems when I get one issue fixed this bow hits me with another. I finally get this thing all straightened out and tiller looking pretty good and I think "Hey lets flip the tips". Well I should have stopped before I did that. One tip bent fine, the other lifted a splinter about four inches from the tip. By time I worked it out it ended up pretty thin. The ring I had to work the splinter out of was almost 1/8" thick. Is it possible to add on overlay to the belly side and work it back to a reasonable thickness?
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The crack went all the way across just above my thumb.(this is after I worked it out)
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That kind of looks like grain run out from the pic? What kind of wood is that?

You could try sneaking some CA glue in there, clamp it to dry then do a wrap around it. In my experience and in reading there are few woods that will be forgiving for run outs. Hickory is one but you still run the risk and spontaneous disassembly.

Happens almost every time I bed statics.

I add an overlay to the back, a nice long one, here are a couple of examples;

This first one was to correct a limb that split down one side when I let the string fall out of one side a nock while stringing. I have put thousands of arrows through this bow with no problems.

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This one is to build up and reinforce a bend after I filed away abut half the limb thickness to get past a crack that formed on the belly during the bend.

You can add overlays to the back or belly(underlay). I would add thin super glue then reduce the belly side so you have a smooth, flat glue surface and add the underlay.
It does look like the grain ended right where the splinters are lifting. Any time you try to bend at a grain runout you risk a chance of that happening. Ideally try to get to one ring on the back and belly where you are going to make a bend to reduce that chance.

The ring original went all the way to the tip, that's where I ended up by time I worked it out. The under lay sounds like the way to go. I will probably do a over lay like Eric said also. I like the look of it.

Well tried to straighten tips out, and wouldn't you know it the limb in question broke.. Guess I'll try to make a short bow or kids bow out of it. Whats the shortest I could go and still have a shooter?

I forgot to mention, I bend the overlays to match the curve of the tips and then glue them on. I don't straighten the tips to do the glue up. I use the same form I used for the bow bend to bend the overlays.

I have glued on overlays or underlays seems to work.   I like your bench Diggs almost the same as my layout.   

How long can you go?  Depends on what you mean by "shooter".  What's the current length, your draw length and approx. draw weight?  How much will you need to shorten the bow?  How 'stuck' are you on the current draw weight?   What was the purpose of this bow -- big game hunting, small game hunting, formal target shooting, backyard roving? 

If you shorten, you'll gain about 5# of draw weight for each inch you take off the ends.  So to maintain the draw weight you'll have to re-tiller. 

I personally like light draw short bows -- 52" for me is a long bow.  My draw length is 27" -- I do not draw to the ear, but to the tip of my jaw.  I'm not a hunter, I'm a backyard rover, and I'd rather shoot 100 arrows a day with a 30# bow than 10 arrows with a 70#er. 

man, i am so sorry you have had so much turmoil with this bow.
when i flip the tips, i try to leave them thicker than what i need, so that i have some meat to reduce them afterwards.
and i also use a metal strap over the belly of the bow- that helps prevent splinters from lifting.
Pat has a good point, get the belly and the back to one ring- i have never actually done that- but really makes a lot of sense- extra security.
i dont have a pic of my strap set up, but i will see if i can find a pic somewhere.
here try this: https://www.worldhistory.biz/modern-history/86217-working-recurve.html

IIRC , Eric has some neat pics of his metal strap bending jig

I'll have to make a set up with the metal strap, i was using a thin piece of hickory in the same way but i will switch to metal. Its pretty short now, it broke four inches from the end so try time i balance it out it will be about 55" long. Probably make a kids bow or one for a small stature person. Its not dead yet, stay tuned.

someone will know better than me, but there was a thread on here a long time ago, called something like "so you wanna build a board bow"
and he used a red oak board, and glued on reflexed tips.
it worked very well, after that i built HBI bow, where i cut off the tips, and  glued on about 5" Hickory static tips, is his same style.
it worked very well.
you could easily do the same.

i found some old pics, while i was building it

Nice job, Fujimo.  That's like a very shallow-angled siyah glued on the tip.  As long as that splice is long and the glue is good there should never be a problem. 

Here it is fujimo.

So ya wanna build a board bow..

http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108949.0

That was a nice build along Curt did. Wonder where he is these days?

Yup, exactly Ken.
there was nothing wrong with that bow, i was inspired by curts build- so it was an experiment for me.
Thanks Roy, thad be da one.
thank you sir. i even forgot it was Curt its been quite a while- i havent seen him around in a while.

After looking at that, I like it too.

Might give that a shot someday.