I'm finally gonna try Thunderbird since I was the winning bidder on a generous St Jude donation.
I'm gonna be refinishing my last build, as it took a nasty spill on some unfinished concrete during turkey season.
Normally I sand to 320 before finishing. But I see they recommend 220. What grit are ya'll using?
Also, I'm doing satin. Is this a dull enough finish for a hunting bow with normal coats, or should I lightly cast the last coat from a distance for a flatter finish?

 Rite or wrong this is the process I use. I finger paint on the first coat to fill any grain, I let it set over night and sand with 220. The second coat I turn the materials knob all the way in on the gun then back it out till its spraying a very light mist, on my gun its about 3/4 of a turn. I spray 7 or eight light coats waiting a few minutes between coats. I let it dry over night then sand it lightly with 220 and do any writing I have to do on the bow. The last coats I apply the same way, I usually use 3 or 4 light coats depending on the amount of finish I have left. You'll end up with a frost looking finish. I keep the finish in a sealed can in the fridge during the whole process and is seems to keep. If you like the frost finish you can leave it but most of the time I polish mine back using 000 steel wool first, then the finest steel wool and then rub with a micro fiber towel. It makes a nice finish that's flat enough for hunting. 

You will have a bit of a learning curve with it there are many ways that people spray. What 4 Point suggested will work great and what you plan will work also. First though be sure you get the flatting agent blended through each time. 

I like to sand to 400, but I don't spray epoxy, which might need more of a mechanical bond. If you want to flatten out your finish, use fumed silica, colloidal silica, etc. Its whats used in most flattening compounds. You do have to be careful about adding to much, its thixotropic and will gel your finish.

Brad the satin will be more than flat enough for bow hunting. I normally take ours a little more on the  clear side of satin and they are good

Thanks David.
Will I still get good adhesion with 320 grit, or should I stop at 220.

You will be fine with 320 if that is what you want to do. A really neat feature of Tbird Epoxy is it fills very well I know of several Bowyers that only sand to 180.

I like going to 220. Even filling grain and sanding, the nocks, everything looks great with 220. Less is not as perfect and more isn't necessary or noticeable. Just take a phone pic of your work and when you blow it up it's easy to be happy or upset..lol

David, how long should the bow dry before shooting it?

Quote from: Roy from Pa on July 09, 2018, 12:04:28 PM
David, how long should the bow dry before shooting it?

Roy that will depend on curing conditions Normally at least 5 days up to 7 is what we suggest. Better to be safe than to have an issue.

Thanks David..

What is the shelf life after the components have been mixed?

And I see 4 point says he refrigerated it. Does that help/extend the time?

two years. Be sure it is stored some where cool. Basements are normally the best option

Quote from: Bow man on July 11, 2018, 06:32:21 AM
two years. Be sure it is stored some where cool. Basements are normally the best option

AFTER components have been mixed??

I have a question if I may.... and I guess since I am typing it, I will be doing it even if I may not... 

How would this do with heat curing? Is there any advantage on time savings? Any detriment to the finish?

Quote from: Bvas on July 11, 2018, 06:51:16 AM

Quote from: Bow man on July 11, 2018, 06:32:21 AM
two years. Be sure it is stored some where cool. Basements are normally the best option

AFTER components have been mixed??

I have never  refrigerated it. I know some do and say it works great. Personally I mix just mix what I will spray at each time.

Quote from: skeaterbait on July 11, 2018, 09:26:10 AM
I have a question if I may.... and I guess since I am typing it, I will be doing it even if I may not... 

How would this do with heat curing? Is there any advantage on time savings? Any detriment to the finish?

I know there are some that put them in some light heat. This will not harm the finish and would speed curing some. I can not say howmuch