Can someone tell me some of the good / bad things about using "Boiled Linseed Oil" on a newly made bow?  Does it help from moisture drawing or does it draw in moisture?  :confused:

Linseed oil is a fairly good weatherproofer.  Half linseed oil and half shellac is the French polish that some folks use on bows and gunstocks.  Linseed by itself will darken the wood over time.  Also tends to soften the exterior a little as well.

Its not a good moisture barrier at all.

DO NOT!!!!!!!!!! Throw your oily rags in the shop trash can!!!!!

Boiled linseed oil will spontaniously combust and start a fire. Set the rags outside to dry,then throw them in the outside trashcan.

Wood Chucker is right on the money, There is much more of a chance that the rags will spontaneously combust than not.

I laid a linseed oil rag on the bar seat in my shop... It melted the plastic and turned the foam charcoal black. good thing I happened back into the shop and caught it before it caught fire.
I agree with Ray,,, it does'nt do the best for a moistier barier. but, it makes a nice looking natural fair weather finish.

I always wonder if the deer can smell it, but I've noticed no ill effects while hunting.

Severa years ago we had a local business owner looking at an arson charge because he threw the oily rags in the trash.

He was refinishing a table top in the back room of his store.When he was done he threw the rags in the trash and took the container of linseed oil home with him.

The table looked perfectly natural in the back room,the linseed oil container was gone,and the fire originated in the trash can.The Arson Investigators determined that it appeared the business owner poured a "flammable substance" in the trash,ignighted it and left.

The business owner was arrested and after a very long period of questioning it came out that he was refinishing the table then he was released and the fire declared accidental.

WOW!!!!! talk about a NIGHTMARE!!!!!!!!!!

Boiled linseed oil is unexcelled for bringing out the beauty of the grain in wood. It also darkens it and tints it toward gold. It soaks in and helps preserve the wood and protect against moisture. So it makes a great starting finish. But it is slow to dry and will tend to soften and get sticky in humid weather, maybe forever. The remedy is to let it dry thoroughly, a week or two or more and go over the top with another finish. Tung oil, Birchwood Casey gunstock finish, and the various '-thanes' are good candidates.

Thank you all for your help.  I think that I'll go ahead and put on another finish over the top of the Linseed oil.  It does bring out the wood grain nicely.  Once agin, thank you for your help.

Birchwood Casey Tru Oil is linseed oil with a hardner. I buy it at Walmart. I like it because it fills in the grain on osage nicely. What I don't like is it is not a great waterproofer in a pouring rain. Last bow I made got multiple coats of Tru Oil (several) and 2 coats of woodworker's paste wax. Birchwood Casey also makes a wax to put over the Tru Oil but I had this wax on hand so  used it. Jawge

After finish sanding a wood bow I use terpentine to wipe down the bow, then a good hand rubbing of Boiled linseed oil. The terpentine removes the dust from the wood and the hand rubber linseed oil really brings out the wood's grain. After a day or so of drying, I start with layers of Tru-Oil.  After the last coat of Tru-Oil has dried I do a quick spray of satin poly to cut the shine of the Tru-Oil.  I've sat for hours in the rain and didn't notice any problems with moisture.   Pat

Tung oil might be a better choice. It to is one of the "Drying oils" and works great.

Boiled linseed should dry eventually, it is raw linseed that will not.

Try mixing a little "japan drier" with the boild linseed oil. It cuts it a little and helps it to dry faster, and stay dry. I have used boiled linseed oil on a lot of things, even water proofing tarps, haversacks, etc. That's the only finish I put on my fflintlocks when I built them, that and boiled walnuts for a stain. The more coats you apply the more shine you will have. The main thing is to put on many light coats, rub them in to the wood with your hand. You'll get a really nice finish out of it and as others stated, it's a "soft" finish, not hard like a varnish.
Jerald