Riser design & strength & construction ?

Started by Forwardhandle, February 18, 2018, 06:08:00 AM

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Forwardhandle

Coming from making self type bows Im not used to making near center shot type risers and I was thinking I would throw this out here to get some advice, Im planing on making my riser pretty much like Kenny does in his build along with the exception of adding 0.050 bow tuff & maple in the radius area to join the Mozabique & Maple together but I have read that the weakest part of this type riser is the belly side of the sight window, would I be better off to add vertical lams of bow tuff in this area also or does adding the glass in the radius area strengthen the riser enough to take stress off that area ? That would be in addition to stagering the grain in the wood" Hope that made sense !    
If you fear failure, you will never try ! But never except it!!

kennym

I think you will be fine, if you radius the corner where shelf meets window.  I've only ever had one break, and that was in a mule wreck in CO.

I think if you put some lamination in the riser side to side, it will work fine, unless you are planning a reallly heavy one, then I would Ibeam with thick G10
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Kopper1013

If I could piggy back here...how much wood is needed to be safe from breakage if you don't wanna I-beam or add glass/g-10... I ask cause I wanna cut a riser 3/16" past center if possible....
Primitive archery gives yourself the maximum challenge while giving the animal the maximum chance to escape- G. Fred Asbell

Forwardhandle

Thanks Kenny probably over thinking it like I do on most bow building things ,Koop ask away , I'm interested in the answers you get to.
If you fear failure, you will never try ! But never except it!!

kennym

Well on a 1.5" riser, 3/16 past center leaves  9/16"  , that isn't much for just wood in my opinion.  Check with crittergetter, I think he built the off side out on a bow awhile back.

Consider the throat of grip, the "sorta" standard is 1" wide and 1.75" deep.  Will you be close to that much when you cut that deep?

Also will depend on weight of bow.
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Crooked Stic

If you are going way past center you could glue a piece on the off side to go down into the finger groove area and shape it in. That will give extra thickness where the shelf and window come together. and about .090 G-10 dont hurt either.
High on Archery.

mikkekeswick


Forwardhandle

If I lamanate 0.050 bow tuff with maple accents in the arrow areas horizontally do you guys think being that far up the ramps that it wont effect  the fade bend ? Im just going to keep my first simple !  There will be 4 lams of bow tuff.  https://i.imgur.com/6NI8V4m.jpg[/img
If you fear failure, you will never try ! But never except it!!

Crittergetter

QuoteOriginally posted by kennym:
Well on a 1.5" riser, 3/16 past center leaves  9/16"  , that isn't much for just wood in my opinion.  Check with crittergetter, I think he built the off side out on a bow awhile back.

Consider the throat of grip, the "sorta" standard is 1" wide and 1.75" deep.  Will you be close to that much when you cut that deep?

Also will depend on weight of bow.
All my 3 piece bows are cut 3/16-1/4 past center but inorder to achieve that i start with a 1 3/4" block. Then you have to tru up the bow hand side then true the limb pads to 1.5" for longbow while leaving the shelf area 1.75 wide. I measure about 10 times before i cut anything.
Then i measure again!! Lol
I was planning on doing it with a 1 piece at some point  but i havnt done it yet.
An elitist mentality creates discord, even among the elite!
"I went jackalope hunting but all I saw was does!"
Luck is when preparedness meets opportunity, I just need more opportunities!

Crittergetter

An elitist mentality creates discord, even among the elite!
"I went jackalope hunting but all I saw was does!"
Luck is when preparedness meets opportunity, I just need more opportunities!

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