I'm trying to find a finish that I can get cheap at the hardware store, is fairly easy and quick to apply, and is tough. It would be on a riser only, as well. I'm thinking Tru oil, helmsman spar urethane, deft, or rattle can automotive clear coat like krylon or Rust-Oleum. What would you guys use? I like the idea of deft, but I don't know how durable it is. Would you say it's better than Tru oil?

The last couple of bows I put a couple coats of tru-oil on the riser and let that dry good.  I then put on several coats of the VHT wheel paint.  Looks nice and has held up well.  More durable than urethane in my opinion.

For quick and easy, it is what I plan to use in the future.  Maybe sometime will have to give TB a try.

Quick and easy, my go to is deft.  I made my current hunting bow 2 years ago and I used deft, and haven't seen any major issues with it.  I've used urethane, but I rather deft.  
Tru oil makes a nice finish but it's a process to wait 24 hrs between 6-8 coats.  
Heard good things about VTH wheel paint but never tried it.

I use clearcoat for 3-4 coats and then the matte wheel finish on the last coat. when I finished last years hunting bow, I used only the wheel finish and it just doesn't cover as well as the auto clearcoat. But kills the super gloss of the clearcoat.

Good thing about clearcoat is you can spray it on oily wood and it drys great.

Oh and I tried Rust-Oleum clear on a bow and it came out like crap.  Ended up sanding if off.

Yeah, I bought some clear FLAT enamel and put on my Bro's bow. It sucked, looked half arsed milky and he says if you brush against something, it turns white.

I need to get it back from him and put a good finish on it!

How's the deft stuff with denting? Is it harder than Tru oil?

If you have a Woodcraft near you, try the Crystalac wood finish.  It's a water borne polyurethane. It's available in interior or exterior. Gloss or satin.

I like it for finishing arrows, but it works on bows too.

I've been trying to get away from solvent based finishes,but the water based clears aren't *quite* there yet.  This is the best one I've tried.

I should add that it can be sprayed with a common HVLP gun with good results.

I've had good results with Varathane water-based spray Spar Polyurethane (satin). It's quick and easy-- I wait only five or ten minutes between coats, so I can do 5 or 6 coats in an hour or less. After the final coat, I let it cure for a couple of days before using the bow.

I'm impressed at how well deft has held up both in looks and durability considering that it came from a rattle can.  I can't comment on tru oil too much as I have only just started to use it.  It does look very good.  
I want to try the wheel paint after seeing that James Parker uses it in his you finish bows.   https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hoezj58zA4Y&time_continue=1210
Around 20 minutes in he talks about the finish.

The vht wheel lacquer is very good.
Water based finishes aren't very durable.
Tru oil is ok but again not very durable or water resistant.
Tung oil is the best oil to use if you want to go down that route. Cut the first couple of coats 50/50 with white spirit.

I used the vht wheel lacquer on my last Kenneym bow and it seems to chip pretty easy.I don't know if others who have used it have had the same results.

I have mixed emotions on the VHT.  The satin looks pretty good, but I did get a few chips on the corners throughout the year.  I tried the VHT gloss on my nephews bow, and after 3 attempts, could not get it to lay down smooth. I also hate the seven day cure period for recoating.

I think I'm gonna try automotive clear from an HVLP on the next one.  I've sprayed it on lots of projects before, but never a bow.  Was always concerned it would crack after flexing.  

Kenny, are you using rattle can clear, or HVLP sprayer?  If using HVLP check with your supplier.  They make stuff that you can add to the clear to give it a satin finish.

Using rattle can from Oreilly's , Duplicolor clear automotive clearcoat.

Then Duplicolor wheel finish , matte for last coat.

Haven't noticed any chipping , but did get one gouge on the riser. My bows don't get babied tho....

Pretty hard to beat clear satin Helmsman for durability, availability, price and ease. 3-4 good coats and its sealed for life. It doesn't chip or flake. Not on any of mine that is.

I used all satin coats on the bow that chipped.  Which may explain why.  Satin formulas never seem to be as durable.

Yes Helmsman is very good too. It won't work on oily exotics tho has been my experience .

also if you use white accents or overlays, it yellows a little.

Kenny if you wipe/spray a single coat of Bullseye shellac on first, it will stick to anything.

True nuff!