I'd agree with Brad and not sure how or if you can fix it.

How much total taper in limbs?

Might wick some CA in there if no lams or riser broke but need something to help prevent same routine again.

On one of my test bows I tapered a pc of .050 glass and glued on belly out past the fades just like an overlay with smooth on . Still have bow and have hunted a lot with it with no probs but nothing was broke when I did it. Just testing....

limbs have 0.006" total taper. The bend seem good and with no hinge pastthe fades.

I thought of trying to dab some CA glue in the problem area and the wrap it wround with fiberglass cloth soaked in epoxy.

Thoughts?

The lam running up the ramp is thickish.  There may not have been enough pressure to squeeze it down tight to the ramps.  This can be a problem with air hose or rubber bands.  

My lams running up the ramps are thin.  Sometimes only the glass.

QuoteOriginally posted by monterey:
The lam running up the ramp is thickish.  There may not have been enough pressure to squeeze it down tight to the ramps.  This can be a problem with air hose or rubber bands.  

My lams running up the ramps are thin.  Sometimes only the glass.

That's why I also used claps on the ramps. The lams on the ramp are a bit thick then I usually make'm but they're glued up tight. The problem is with the middle lam on the back of the riser.

I can't really tell where the glue fail is from pic but if it is up where the fades are a half inch thick, then the glass cloth and resin is what I'd do....

I can't really see it either.  If you plan to reduce the width any, it might dissapear or at least show as only a thick glue joint.

Do you have any pics of the clamping during glue up?

I don`t have any pics of the glue up. I thought it`ll be a walk in the park... but I guess there`s a learning curve even in straight bows.

What I`ll do is this-
Put CA glue in the gap.
Make the "glass belly overlays" Kenny suggested (I guess it`s ment to keep the bent away from the fades)
Then I`ll wrap it with glass cloth and resin.

It might be too much but I`ll try everything.

Net time, I`ll make a longer riser with longer fades and use a power lam.

Thoughs?

I have built a few of these types of bows now and am certainly no expert, but one thing i have learned is they are really tough to keep the string tracking down the middle and at the same time get the tiller right. be sure to lay out the width a bit wider than you intend and work down from there watching the string alignment as you go. you need some extra width to work with to correct, it can be a real bear to deal with.
With the narrow limb (1 1/8" or less at fadeout and 3/8" or less at the nock) hill style bow you need .007 to .008" total taper depending on the length, shorter bow more taper. 15" or less riser.
also, it is much easier to put the riser on top of all of the laminations and only run the belly fiberglass up the back of the riser.
good luck