tiller picture how bad is it

John Malone · December 12, 2017, 07:25:00 PM

I can only post the link to the pic sorry, unless some could tell me that as well. Thanks

https://www.flickr.com/photos/141673007@N02/38302089394/in/dateposted-public/

Pat B · December 12, 2017, 09:03:00 PM

The right limb(top) is bending too much at the fade and not enough on the outside 1/3 of the limb. The left looks ok but could bend more on the outer limb and maybe a smig at the fade.

John Malone · December 12, 2017, 09:36:00 PM

Thanks Pat, now I know how deep not to cut a shelf. I'm going to see if I can get it right and save for when I'm old and weak.

scrub-buster · December 12, 2017, 10:54:00 PM

Get those outer limbs moving a little bit. Both fades and inner thirds seem to be doing most of the bending. Especially the upper limb.

December 12, 2017, 11:02:00 PM

what these guys said sounds about right... Before you change anything... Shoot it, record the numbers, see how the bow feels, take lots of notes, change the tiller a little and repeat until you find what works best... You can get advice but you learn best from your own doings...

mikkekeswick · December 13, 2017, 02:38:00 AM

Don't even draw it again until you fix the tiller! Pulling it in this state will simply induce set in the inner limbs.
Golden rule - Never ever pull a wooden bow past the point where you can see a problem. Bacvk off work on problem areas then slowly increase drawlength until you 've either fixed it or can see where needs more work.

December 13, 2017, 08:20:00 AM

That's good advice Mike... I don't make all wood bows but that sounds like it should be the Golden Rule...

George Tsoukalas · December 13, 2017, 08:32:00 AM

John, what concerns me is that you have a narrowed handled bow with a cut-out that seems to be bending a lot in the handle.

Do get the outer third of both limbs bending more to alleviate the handle bending.

Jawge

John Malone · December 13, 2017, 09:02:00 AM

Thanks guys. George the top limb didn't bend at the fade like that until I cut that shelf deeper. I don't feel it bending in the handle but it has to be. It was coming along great until I did that. at only 44# now it will be another kids bow. Never fear though I have more wood and Pat B just started a build along for a ALB which I like the looks of better than a pyramid

BMorv · December 13, 2017, 10:04:00 AM

Try Imgur for your photos. I think I copy the Linked BBCode(message boards) url. Just play around with the different links and see which one displays the photo the best in the preview post mode.

BMorv · December 13, 2017, 10:15:00 AM

And on your next one I would make your handle overlay about 4" longer and fade it into the working part of the inner limb. When you are 1st starting out it's better to play it safe in the fade area. You really don't want any set in that area.

skeaterbait · December 14, 2017, 07:29:00 AM

Keep an eye on the handle, from the pick it looks like it is flat against the working part of the bow instead of the fades being cut down in to the main board. Over time this will cause the handle to pop off.

I may be seeing this wrong, if so, please disregard the old blind guy

John Malone · December 14, 2017, 08:33:00 AM

Skeater that's the question I have for the new one I'm making. I just sort followed what ive seen on others. I do believe your correct.

BMorv · December 14, 2017, 10:38:00 AM

John, take a look at poor folk bows website (Sam Harper's website, he's a member here the last time I checked). Look at the bottom of the 1st page on his bamboo backed ipe build. He explains the problems with handles popping off very well. Those concepts apply to all bows.
The good thing about those methods is you're not only preventing the handle from popping off, but your are ensuring a smooth fade transition to working limbs.

John Malone · December 14, 2017, 10:43:00 AM

Thanks BMorv, I skipped over that one when I read bamboo.

I got it now, makes sense.