Think I may have asked this question or a similar one before but it's just my senility kicking in.For the all wood guys, if you are making a osage self bow and want to flip the tips, is it done while the bow is[1]  mostly as a stave,[2] when the worked stave is on the long string or [3] maybe closer to a finished tiller? As a point of interest could it also be done to a bow that has been finished and used for some time?

Have a look at clay hayes youtube videos. He does a superb job walking through the process on several different bows at various stages of completion. One he flips the tips after it is floor tillered well. Another on a bow he has shot for several years i believe.

Msturm

You can do it at any time.  
It shortens working limb, helps string angle hence stroes more energy.
I'ver seen people say ' I was getting a bit of set so flipped the tips to offset it' this is not the best way as the bow is already showing excess strain through the the set and flipping the tips simply increases strain....
Much better to actually design the bow with a slight recurve in mind eg. wide enough limbs than to do it to a finished bow or one much of the way through tillering.

Thanks Msturm and Mike. I will be working on a stave in near future and was asked to do the tips. It is only roughed out so will be able to incorporate it into the build.Both staves , this one and the one I built my bow from, have steam induced reflex as it is . Mine has about .75'' reflex before stringing  after I have had 1000 or so shots so far  and after a big shoot depending on weather conditions will have about .75'' "follow" which returns to status Quo after a while.It is snappy enough for me not to worry about inducing any " extra" curvature into the tips but it was just speculation as to possible outcomes.

Another question fellas, I had said stave on form outside my workshop [no room!] and we got hit with sudden rain storm, hence it got wet. Will it now take another year or so to lose all this moisture or will some extra steaming remove enough?

Steam isn't going to remove moisture, but getting it wet also isn't going to add another year to drying. When in doubt, do nothing. Or if you prefer the hypocritic approach (as in hypocratic oath) 'first do no harm'

Stick it in yer heat box for a week at 90 degrees.

one rain storm is not going to do any harm- by the time you remove the excess wood- you will be good- when you cut it to shape- take some of the off cuts and check the mc on them if you have a moisture meter with pins

QuoteOriginally posted by mikkekeswick:
You can do it at any time.    
It shortens working limb, helps string angle hence stroes more energy.
I'ver seen people say ' I was getting a bit of set so flipped the tips to offset it' this is not the best way as the bow is already showing excess strain through the the set and flipping the tips simply increases strain....
Much better to actually design the bow with a slight recurve in mind eg. wide enough limbs than to do it to a finished bow or one much of the way through tillering.

X2 on that note.

i totally agree wolftrail and mike. My bow doesn't need it merely curious as it was made with reflex in the design and hasn't adopted any string follow.This current bow the prospective owner has requested 'flipped tips' so will incorporate them into the design.Just wanted to be totally aware of best manner to go about it.